Forty Years Ago: the Italians on Dhaulagiri

1976: “the Eagles” of San Martino , Trentino, Italia

  Italian Expedition with Sherpa

The italian Guides “Eagles of San Martino” and the Sherpas

On February,23th 1976 italian expedition of the Eagles of San Martino and Primiero left from Milan to Kathmandu, as follows: Renzo Debertolis expedition leader, Francesco Santon deputy, the Eagles Camillo De Paoli, Gian Paolo De Paoli, Luciano Gadenz, Gian Pietro Scalet, Silvio Simoni, Giampaolo Zortea, Edward Zagonel, mountaineers Sergio Martini and Luigi Henry, Poluzzi Achille medic and writer Alfonso Bernardi assistant and author of the chronicle of those moments in the book “Trentini on Dhaulagiri 8172 m.”

ritorno dalla Vetta!

the descent from summit. Giampaolo Zortea and Silvio Simoni, the two mountaineers that succeeded to top out. Luciano Gadenz went down from around 7950 mt. due to freezing toes.

portatori verso CB

On May,4th 1976 Alpine Guides Giampaolo Zortea and Silvio Simoni, stood on the summit of Dhaulagiri wrapped in the storm, at 8,172 meters, their ice axes with  Italian, Nepalese and of course the Eagles flags. It was the first eight thousand conquered by an expedition by Trentino mountaineers and, the third eight thousand conquered by Italian. The value of this  mountaineering feat is well difficult to place in an absolute ranking, as it is formed by too many elements, human, technical, environmental and even in weightlessness, but it can be said that the climb to the Dhaulagiri 1976 deserves a place of highest order. “Valuable Success” headlined an article by Alessandro Pillory (known mountaineer and writer) on “Tuttosport” of June 12th, 1976. ( fonte: sanmartino.com )French Pass Glacier Dhaulagiri

the glacier from the French Pass and the route on the right towards the Col and Northeast Ridge

  Campo Base Italiano

 

Base Camp later called “the Italians”. Below, the “cathedral” north of Dhaulagiri.

    parete Nord Dhaulagiri

This incredible pic shows how many porters were hired by italians.

All rights reserved (c) Alfonso Bernardi –  Bernardi family

Leonard Carrel: a Matterhorn Guide

Leonard Carrel 1871-1940

Leonard Carrel - Guida del Cervino, 1930

Son of Jean-Antoine , “il Bersagliere”, “THE Matterhorn Guide”, an extraordinary career and a Guide of strong ethical values

 

Leonard Carrel, guida Cervino - Capanna Jurneaux 1930


Carriera

  • 56 Matterhorn Ascents
  • 40 years as an alpine guide
  • first ascents on various Mte Rosa routes
  • ascents on Pennine Alps and Bern Alps

LEONARD CARREL

Son of the illustrious JeanAntoine, the Matterhorn Guidepar excellence; appointed bearer May 20, 1894, and guide June 19, 1899, carried out his mountaineering activities up to 1939, climbing the Matterhorn fifty-six times, and making ascents in the Monte Rosa massif and the highest peaks of the Pennine and Bernese Alps. On April 10 1904, with mountaineer Gabriel De Bottini and the other guide Valtournanche Abel Pession, he did make   the first ascent of Mont Avi or Au (3,006 meters, Valle d’Aosta) to the south ridge; in 1938, at sixty-seven, yet he made the ascent of the Breithorn (4165 meters). He died in Cervinia on December 24 1940.