Le retour à l’âge d’or

Between the end of summer and the first month of Autumn 2016, the high altitude mountaineering has experienced a withering period of extraordinary climbing in Nepal, India and China.

The common characteristics of very different climbs  are small teams,alpine style, the search for aesthetic lines, in difficult mixed terrain, with a style and an ethic that recall the golden age (thanks to Stefano Lovison for this happy synthesis) of the 80s and ’90, a new route vision on steep and technical lines.

Among the expeditions that have achieved extraordinary feats, we have choosen these pair, which we consider particularly significant:

  • Direttissima “Moveable Feast” Sergey Nilov, Dmitry Grigoriev and Dmitry Golovchenko (RU). North Buttress thalay sagar, 6904 meters, 1600 meters long, 1200 elevation, averaging 62 ° tilt and 71 ° Average wall – 09.15.2016. New way with some common parts with previous streets, is plumb. They didn’t use a portaledge, only a tent, so this may be aconsidered  first alpine style ascent.
  • “Great Escape” Nyainqentangla, 7046 meters, 1600 meters of development, South East via the North Buttress, Nick Bullock and Paul Ramdsen (UK). First ascent. Oct 5, 2016
Nyainqentangla South East
Nyainqentangla South East, 7 days of climbing

 

thalay sagar north
thalay sagar north (credit mountain.ru ), 8 days of climbing

Forty Years Ago: the Italians on Dhaulagiri

1976: “the Eagles” of San Martino , Trentino, Italia

  Italian Expedition with Sherpa

The italian Guides “Eagles of San Martino” and the Sherpas

On February,23th 1976 italian expedition of the Eagles of San Martino and Primiero left from Milan to Kathmandu, as follows: Renzo Debertolis expedition leader, Francesco Santon deputy, the Eagles Camillo De Paoli, Gian Paolo De Paoli, Luciano Gadenz, Gian Pietro Scalet, Silvio Simoni, Giampaolo Zortea, Edward Zagonel, mountaineers Sergio Martini and Luigi Henry, Poluzzi Achille medic and writer Alfonso Bernardi assistant and author of the chronicle of those moments in the book “Trentini on Dhaulagiri 8172 m.”

ritorno dalla Vetta!

the descent from summit. Giampaolo Zortea and Silvio Simoni, the two mountaineers that succeeded to top out. Luciano Gadenz went down from around 7950 mt. due to freezing toes.

portatori verso CB

On May,4th 1976 Alpine Guides Giampaolo Zortea and Silvio Simoni, stood on the summit of Dhaulagiri wrapped in the storm, at 8,172 meters, their ice axes with  Italian, Nepalese and of course the Eagles flags. It was the first eight thousand conquered by an expedition by Trentino mountaineers and, the third eight thousand conquered by Italian. The value of this  mountaineering feat is well difficult to place in an absolute ranking, as it is formed by too many elements, human, technical, environmental and even in weightlessness, but it can be said that the climb to the Dhaulagiri 1976 deserves a place of highest order. “Valuable Success” headlined an article by Alessandro Pillory (known mountaineer and writer) on “Tuttosport” of June 12th, 1976. ( fonte: sanmartino.com )French Pass Glacier Dhaulagiri

the glacier from the French Pass and the route on the right towards the Col and Northeast Ridge

  Campo Base Italiano

 

Base Camp later called “the Italians”. Below, the “cathedral” north of Dhaulagiri.

    parete Nord Dhaulagiri

This incredible pic shows how many porters were hired by italians.

All rights reserved (c) Alfonso Bernardi –  Bernardi family

Aerial View: Dhaulagiri NW

December, 1975: Alfonso Bernardi shots  Dhaulagiri North flanks, NW ridge and buttress from a Pilatus Porter , as a member of next  Italian Expedition Aquile del Trentino, 1976


Dhaulagiri Aerial Reconnaissance: Preview

This is a preview of a series of pictures, dated late 1975; an aerial reconnaissance of the mountain before the italian expedition of Aquile del Trentino , spring 1976. The Author was a member of that expedition as Scientific Director and Writer

 

dhaulagiri ne buttress
Dhaulagiri ,North East Buttress. Approx 5000 mt., Pilatus Porter – aerial reconnaissance by Alfonso Bernardi