4 days ago

Montagna Magica

Simone Moro and Pemba Sherpa in action on Manaslu : they established C1 at 5800mt, slept there, then they came back to BC for resting today.
Tomorrow they aim to reach C2.

(ph Simone Moro)
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5 days ago

Montagna Magica

Born on this day, 1970 ; Kami Rita Sherpa, GREAT Nepalese climber, who ascended #Everest twenty-two times (1994, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, twice in 2009, twice in 2010, 2012, in 2013 twice, 2016, 2017 and 2018), Cho Oyu eight times (2001, 2004, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014 and 2016), Manaslu twice (2017 and 2018), Lhotse in 2011 and K2 in 2014.

Info : 8000ers.com, please consider donate to Eberhard Jurgalski, grand Master working hard for providing stats, fact checking, analysis for free.

#8000ers
#himalaya #montagnamagicaweb
#alpinismo #climbing #alpinism #sherpa
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5 days ago

Montagna Magica

Nanga update *** from @karim Hayat
The condition of weather worsened during last night, and team worked hard to keep snow outside tent.
Karim reported "terrible conditions of wind and snow" .
This morning Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard managed to reach 6200mt (!) before coming back at C3.
A huge avalanche came down while the team was fixing ropes in the area, luckily anyone was involved.
Rahmat Baig had a difficult night with throat sore so Karim Hayat decided to join him on a immediate, successful descent to BC.
Daniele and Tom are descending to C1, Karim had seen their lights, tomorrow at BC. (edited)
Weather conditions are worsening faster than expected.
** update from Karim : Tom and Daniele are in BC! all doing well
(ph Rahmat Baig)
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6 days ago

Montagna Magica

Anatoli Boukreev,Kazakh climber, born on this day 61 years ago.

New routes on 8000ers :
1989,Kangchenjunga (few days after Summit he will complete the 1st integral traverse of 4 summit)
1992,Dhaulagiri (West face, May)

Others 8000ers :
1992 Everest (South, October)
1993 K2 (Abruzzi)
1994 Makalu, Makalu II
1995 Everest (North), Dhaulagiri (Record speed ascent 17h15'), Manaslu
1996 Everest (as a guide for Scott Fisher, saved 3 alpinists during the infamous disaster which led to 13 deaths ), Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma
1997 Everest, Lhotse, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II. On December 25th he died under an avalanche on Annapurna.

And he was playing guitar, as well.
A giant among the greatest.
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6 days ago

Montagna Magica

Nardi on Mummery Spur, 2013 (ph Nardi /Revol Flickr) ...

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6 days ago

Montagna Magica

Winter Expedition update ***
While K2 teams are finally arriving at BC ( Alex Txikon tomorrow, russians already there) and Simone Moro with Pemba Sherpa are at Manaslu BC, on Nanga Parbat the team is again back in action at the foot of Mummery Spur wall.

Daniele Nardi reported that while Tom Ballard and Karim Hayat were beating the track to C3 at 5700mt, himself and Rahmat were behind them carrying 30kg rucksacks full of gear.
They intend to open "some pitches" on the technical wall.
They fought to reopen the track due to snow and worked hard to clear the tent, also "filled of snow".

Meteorologist Filippo Thiery, who is in charge of weather forecasts for the team , as in the past Nardi attempts on Nanga, told that they have 3 days of good weather, although with strong winds up the wall, for this initial attempt.
The team is expected to be back at BC on 19th.

(ph Daniele Nardi / the team at C3)
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica

Winter Expedition update :
K2 teams will reach BC in a couple of days. It is noticeable this late arrival.
Nanga Parbat Team is resting at BC after the hard work on the glacier and initial slope at bottom of Mummery Rib.
Simone Moro with Pemba Sherpa had spent a night at 5800 on Mera peak for acclimatize before transfer to Manaslu BC.
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

*** Nanga Parbat news ***
Daniele Nardi team reached 5700mt, at the bottom of Mummery rib/wall.
They will spend a night inside a crevasse, Daniele reported they are very tired but very happy about their progress; he said that the night will be hard, due to strong winds and cold.
Tomorrow they will be back at BC.

Here an approx map of the the intended route
#montagnamagicaweb
montagnamagica.com
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