+++Disclaimer : long, controversial, and ugly post. I assume full responsability, only personal thoughts +++
MANASLU Multiple "summits": should we call them FAKE NEWS or what?
After Eberhard Jurgalski called a discussion on "summit tolerance zone" on his fundamental website 8000ers.com, because after YEARS of research, study, topographical checks it's clear that many alpinists did not stood on the very summits - specially regarding Manaslu, Dhaulagiri I, Annapurna I - there were little response from the community.
It seems that many journalists, alpinists and sponsors prefer to turn their back and simply don't want to consider this issue.
I just want to tell that so far, after dozen of claimed summits on Manaslu this season, IT SEEMS THAT THERE IS NOT A SINGLE ALPINIST THAT PROPERLY "SUMMITED" MANASLU.
NOT-A-SINGLE-ONE, NOR SHERPAS DID REACH THE TRUE SUMMIT (until someone shows the contrary to 8000ers or Himalayan Database experts, not Nepalese "authorities" ).
This is the reality, despite claims.
Almost all of them stood on foresummit named "C2" or lower.
Anyway, many of you could think that's not so important to "summit" few horizontal or vertical meters, no problem.
As for me, I decided to stop any report or writing stories of such kind.
It's just my opinion, but I'm pissed off very much, I feel bitter about this fake storytelling on "commercial" (and also "alpine style claims", "no sherpa support" stories).
I would like to thanks the fine people with I discussed on this issues showing them "summit pics", they know who they are 😉
(ph "About Manaslu Summit topography" Pdf, 8000ers.com, please go to the site, download and read those documents to understand better this, and please consider to support the hard work of this site which is used by ALL alpinism community without the due support)
La conferma definitiva al nostro "scoop" sul permesso a Nims.
Qualcuno lo metteva in dubbio ma si sapeva benissimo che prima del timbro ufficiale c'erano festeggiamenti da rispettare e si attendeva la visita ufficiale del Presidente Cinese in Nepal 🇳🇵
Il fortissimo Gurkha vuole completare i Quattordici Ottomila in 6 mesi - non 7!With full of mix emotions ; I feel very humble, thankful and proud today. Finally me and my team has got the permit to climb Shishapangma.
I would like to thank the government of Nepal for approaching China on my behalf for this project and I would also like to thank the government of China for considering my application and allowing me to climb Shishapangma this year .
Equally, I would like to thank the Ministery of foreign affairs Nepal, Department of Tourism, Embassy of a China in Nepal , NMA, CTMA, TMA and all my friends who helped me ( you all know who you are ) to make this happen. Thank you to all for taking this "Bremont Project Possible” as OUR project. My heart and soul is full of joy with mixed emotions.
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Now, you have given me the opportunity, I will deliver my promise.
I’m looking to complete this project within 6 months .
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I love you all and big thank you to my wife @sus_xox for bearing with me and being that "strong woman”- Without your support I wouldn’t have come this far.
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📸 @sandro.g.h
#thankyouchina #shishapangma #nma #ctma #tma
#highaltitudemountaineering #beliveinyourself #humanendeavour #nepal #himalayas #visitnepal2020 #savenature #gohighergobigger #projectpossible #14peaks7months #beliveinyourself #humanendeavour #extremeoftheextreme #sherpalegends #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher
Cristina Piolini, Italian lady climber and skier, summited Manaslu (8163mt) without oxygen, no direct sherpa support, on normal route on September 27th.
She was alone climbing until the top from C3, then she descended by ski all the way to C2 (with a stop in C4 for some rest) where she did a rope rappel down a high serac ; after that, she skied until Base Camp.
This is the first female descent, almost integral, by ski on Manaslu.
Btw, she said she carried up and down her own tent and materials,in a backpack of about 25kg, leaving nothing on the mountain.
Also, she started her Expedition by trekking to Bc, she finished the Expedition by trekking all the way down to Kathmandu.
(ph Cristina "Pemba Sherpa" Piolini, Facebook)
Breaking news
It seems that Nims Purja has obtained a permit to climb on Shishapangma from Chinese Authorities
BAGHIRATHI IV (6193mt) West Wall First Ascent
15/9/2019 by @ragnidilecco @matteodellabordella, Luca Schiera e Matteo De Zaiacomo
Route named "Cavalli Bardati (.. che fanno tremare la terra.. )
"Harnessed Horses (.. making the ground tremble.. )
Coming soon on @rockandicemag web the story of the 1st route up to this stunning granite wall located in the Gangotri Range, Garwhal Himalaya / India
Huge thanks in advance 🙏 for exclusive photos, interview and art.. design 😁to @ragnidilecco President and Expedition Leader @matteodellabordella
Presto anche in italiano, su @sherpa_gate
(ph Ragni di Lecco © / Matteo "Giga" De Zaiacomo high on the Bhagirathi IV West face traversing)
#montagnamagicaweb
#bhagirathiiv
#himalaya
#alpinismo
#alpinism
#climbing
Tim Emmett, experienced alpinist and Ice climber, was the only one who managed to find a route to Camp1 on Everest in these days.
Today he called off his Expedition, because under the wall the route is threatened by a dangerous and huge serac which tilted and could break suddenly.
The Sherpas team and Ice doctors referred never seen, bad an worrying conditions on Khumbhu Icefall and Emmett 's decision speaks loud about the overall danger for the climbers.
Tim' s complete statement :
"All through my life I have navigated risk. I try to make good decisions in potentially dangerous environments using education and my gut instinct to guide me. I’ve lost too many friends to turn a blind eye and plead ignorance.
Yesterday the Sherpas finally made it to Camp 1, so good 🙏👌🙌 ! But on their return they showed images of a very large, detached serac looming about 3000ft above our route up the ice fall. ( See if you can spot the 4 climbers in the lower circle of the second shot)
In 2014 a smaller serac that was also much lower on the face, broke off and killed 16 Sherpas!
Putting two and two together I lay in bed last night, awake for most of it contemplating our next move, knowing there was no way I could let myself and any of our team be subjected to this potential catastrophe.
After a long chat with @joe_vernachio and @garrettmadison1 this morning both @mountainhardwear and I have decided to end our attempt on Everest for this season. Mountaineering has its own risks which have to be accepted for one to move forward, but this particular one is way outside the norm and a game of roulette, with many bullets.
For sure I am totally gutted to miss this chance to experience something I have been curious about for much of my life, but when you see a red flag, take note and make good choices.
Thanks so much for following and supporting me on this quest, I hope there are many more to come 😉👌🙏🙏🙏 @mountainhardwear @mhweverest2019 Thanks for the photo @andrzejbargiel, good luck with your quest I hope you can make it 😉 "
(ph Tim Emmett Fb)
I Ragni di Lecco - Arrampicata Alpinism Climbing
Matteo della Bordella , Luca Schiera e Matteo De Zaiacomo sono a Delhi e rientreranno in Italia questo weekend,
Molto presto il racconto dettagliato della loro impresa dopo un'intervista con Matteo DB.
(Ph ragni di Lecco, parete Ovest e vetta del bhagirathi iv)
Today is the 75th birthday of a great man.
He went up the most higher mountains, he explored the World and the Poles.
He did it by fair means, he broke physical and mental limits.
He lost a brother and many friends along his long path.
He was blamed for years, he is celebrated since years.
He wrote books, he's directing and producing movies, he got a great and loved family ; he built mountain museums, he took from Nepal and herded Yaks in Italy.
He lives in a castle and he's hosting people from all around the world.
He is Reinhold Messner.
(ph by Jim Herrington)
BREAKING NEWS FROM Ragni Di Lecco Alpine Team :
"Matteo Della Bordella , Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera made it. Today they completed their route on the unclimbed west wall of the Bhagirathi IV (6.193 M), in India."
This was the second trip, after in 2015 summer they managed to climb short 200mt to the summit on the beatiful and difficult wall
(ph Ragni di Lecco)
E proprio quando cerchi un segno di ispirazione, uno stimolo a superare difficoltà, il giorno in cui celebravo Walter Bonatti e mio nonno Alfonso Bernardi, mi cade l'occhio su un numero :
MONTAGNA MAGICA 4810 likes.
Sulla cima del Monte Bianco a 4810 metri !
Grazie! Thank you! Merci ! Danke !
Ciao Nonno, sei il solito burlone beffardo!