3 days ago

Montagna Magica

Quarantine good lectures :
Heinrich Harrer
- 7yrs in Tibet (1955)
- Return to stone and (1964)
Joe Brown
- autobiography The Hard Years (1967)

What about yours?
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

"Almost a year ago, in March 2019, our film's protagonists Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko attempted to climb the virgin East Face of Jannu /Kumbhakarna. (Actually they succeed to climb the face till the ridge at altitude of 7400 m). The premiere of 'The Wall of Shadows' (90 minutes) will take place in the Spring. More details soon! 📷 by @golovchenko.dmitry "

Words from Eliza Kubarska, director, a strong woman that last year provided an incredible support to those fantastic Russian guys.
As a personal note, I'm proud to call them my friends, since the bond I had following their epic adventure on that holy mountain, became very important to me.
Dedicated to Demchenko Alpine Club Moscow, to Victor Gorlov, Sergey, Dmitry, Eliza, Anna Piunova
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4 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

East Face of Fitz Roy/Cerro Chalten, Patagonia as seen by I Ragni di Lecco - Arrampicata Alpinism Climbing President!La parete Est del Fitz Roy
Passarci sotto ha sempre un sapore speciale...penso proprio che questa sia la mia parete preferita in Patagonia!

Karpos Kong Scarpa Spa Team Vibram I Ragni di Lecco - Arrampicata Alpinism Climbing DF-SportSpecialist Cai Sezione di Lecco "Riccardo Cassin" Urban Wall - Milano Climbing factory evileye.eyewear Imprimis srl
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4 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

+++ Winter expedition 2020 best pick +++

Despite my initial thoughts and doubts about this young German climber "impossible" winter solo on Everest West Ridge route (rarely repeated in any season), Jost Kobusch did a fantastic effort in good style, reaching 7366mt before ending his summit bid and coming down safe and sound from the highest mountain in the world.

2 months of slow, steady progress facing harsh weather, technical hard difficulties, avoiding as best as possible the objective dangers as avalanches, spindrift, winds and crevasses, opening and equipping with rope the initial steep wall, passing many nights at LhoLa pass tent (6000mt), searching another route after the equipped section crushed under avalanche, going down at BC and back at C1 then finally pushing straight up to the proper West Ridge.
And managing some physical troubles during the entire expedition.

For sure, my personal pick of best winter expedition 2020. By fair means.

(ph Jost official)
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1 month ago

Montagna Magica

+++ Winter Everest : Game Over +++

Jost Kobusch reached 7350mt in his incredible winter solo attempt on West Ridge.
In his long expedition the young German climber showed patience, resilience and after a long phase of shifts between Base Camp and Lho La Pass, where he had his C1 tent, in the last days he found a key passage gaining the access at the proper west Ridge, he slept at 6700mt then climbed up 7350mt on the Ridge, where he decided to stop his attempt due to strong winds, avalanches risks and a bit perfect physical condition.
He's back safely at BC.
Congratulations to him, he did an extraordinary feat and gained a wide experience in winter climbing : hats off and let's see next year!

Alex Txikon team reached a maximum altitude of approx 6900mt on Lhotse wall.
Since the beginning his expedition was unlucky, first his partner Garcia fall in a crevasse, then another one got sick, as well some Sherpas; condition of the Lhotse wall were dangerous due to hard ice and stone falls.
He tried a different route from C2 to the left of Lhotse normal route to C3, but in the last attempt weather was bad, lot of snow on the way to C2 and then objective hazards were too high on Lhotse face.
Alex called off the expedition today.
This was his third Everest winter attempt.

(ph 1,2 Jost Kobusch / ph 3 Alex Txikon)
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