We miss you, Valery.
His last flight from the wall of Ama Dablam, 2 years ago.Valery Rozov, one of the greatest dreamers, wingsuit flyer, passionate Explorer, did his last flight and left this world.
In this very moment, we learnt from Russian news feed the horrible news, and we're not interested, at the moment, to clear the details of the incident.
Valery jumped from several huge walls, like Kilimanjaro, Cho Oyu, Everest North. Each jump a feat itself, mastering alpine climbing, logistics, weather condition, flight path.
He was a Master.
He took the art of wingsuit into the thin air and will be deeply missed, as a humble, gentle, funny Russian guy.
Si avvicina l'Estate...Australe, per l'alpinismo in Patagonia .
Il solo nominarla, porta alla mente di noi appassionati scalate in condizioni sempre estreme, con improvvisi cambi meteo, imprevedibilità e difficili avvicinamenti, su remoti plateau glaciali e le meravigliosi Torri granitiche.
Ma è ancora così ? Cosa è cambiato, come si è evoluto l'alpinismo in Patagonia e a che cosa è dovuta la trasformazione e l'approccio delle spedizioni odierne ?
Tre anni fa, Kelly Cordes, brillante alpinista e scrittore statunitense, grande esperto della zona, mi concesse gentilmente di tradurre un suo illuminante articolo sulla questione.
Ve lo ripropongo perchè è attuale e molto interessante.
Happy Birthday to the Master behind 8000ers.com!
Copy- pasting and posting these fine text by Bob Schelfhout Aubertijn :
***
Born on this day, 1952.11.08; Eberhard Jurgalski, German mountain-chronicler, author and general purveyor of statistical information. He is mostly known for collecting information relating to the eight-thousanders. In addition, he is engaged in the systematic recording of mountains based on topographic criteria.
Jurgalski is the go-to-person for authors, researchers, and mountaineers from all across the spectrum, also because of his wide network and his close collaboration and interaction with others. In some cases with data of a highly specialised nature he's simply the only one who is able to supply it. And even when some of the [more recent] research papers have been met with amazement and some disbelief; his data is solid, [almost] bomb proof.
The "Great Laughing Buddha of Lörrach" is a remarkable character, befitting the "Humble Pie". Though this specialised work is an ongoing project requiring time and devotion, the average plumber or waitress has a better monthly income, so continued support is needed and always most welcome.
[info; text shamelessly leached from Bob-Qwrk & wikipedia.org / image shamelessly leeched off facebook without prior permission from Thaneswar Guragai]
Happy Birthday, Eberhard, and a great many happy returns!
Foto del diario“MISSION ACHIEVED !” says @nimsdai from the summit of #Shishapangma
#14peaks7months #History
At 8:58 hrs local time, Nims and his team reached the summit of Shisha Pangma. Team Members includes: Mingma David Sherpa, Galjen Sherpa, Gesman Tamang and Jangbu Sherpa.
#nimsdai #BremontProjectPossible #extremehighaltitudemountaineering #uksf #extremeoftheextreme #nolimit #silxo #ospreyeurope #antmiddleton #digi2al #adconstructiongroup #omnirisc #summitoxygen #inmarsat #thrudark #gurkhas #sherpas #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher
ExplorersWeb on Manaslu summit issue.
Manaslu’s Can of Worms: Did Anyone at All Reach the True Summit?
“There is not a single alpinist who properly summited Manaslu, not a single one, nor did Sherp30 years.Jerzy Kukuczka
(Katowice, 24.3.1948 – Lhotse, 24.10.1989)
montagnamagica.com/cime-tempestose/jerzy-kukuczka-il-fuoriclasse-polacco-e-la-sfida-per-i-14-otto...
Podcast :
ninoradio.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/CimeTempestose-Undici.mp3
+++Disclaimer : long, controversial, and ugly post. I assume full responsability, only personal thoughts +++
MANASLU Multiple "summits": should we call them FAKE NEWS or what?
After Eberhard Jurgalski called a discussion on "summit tolerance zone" on his fundamental website 8000ers.com, because after YEARS of research, study, topographical checks it's clear that many alpinists did not stood on the very summits - specially regarding Manaslu, Dhaulagiri I, Annapurna I - there were little response from the community.
It seems that many journalists, alpinists and sponsors prefer to turn their back and simply don't want to consider this issue.
I just want to tell that so far, after dozen of claimed summits on Manaslu this season, IT SEEMS THAT THERE IS NOT A SINGLE ALPINIST THAT PROPERLY "SUMMITED" MANASLU.
NOT-A-SINGLE-ONE, NOR SHERPAS DID REACH THE TRUE SUMMIT (until someone shows the contrary to 8000ers or Himalayan Database experts, not Nepalese "authorities" ).
This is the reality, despite claims.
Almost all of them stood on foresummit named "C2" or lower.
Anyway, many of you could think that's not so important to "summit" stopping short, few horizontal or vertical meters, ok that's no problem.
As for me, I decided to stop any report or writing stories of such kind.
It's just my opinion, but I'm pissed off very much, I feel bitter about this fake storytelling on "commercial" (and also "alpine style claims", "no sherpa support" stories).
I would like to thanks the fine people with I discussed on this issues showing them "summit pics", they know who they are 😉
(ph "About Manaslu Summit topography" Pdf, 8000ers.com, please go to the site, download and read those documents to understand better this, and please consider to support the hard work of this site which is used by ALL alpinism community without the due support)
La conferma definitiva al nostro "scoop" sul permesso a Nims.
Qualcuno lo metteva in dubbio ma si sapeva benissimo che prima del timbro ufficiale c'erano festeggiamenti da rispettare e si attendeva la visita ufficiale del Presidente Cinese in Nepal 🇳🇵
Il fortissimo Gurkha vuole completare i Quattordici Ottomila in 6 mesi - non 7!With full of mix emotions ; I feel very humble, thankful and proud today. Finally me and my team has got the permit to climb Shishapangma.
I would like to thank the government of Nepal for approaching China on my behalf for this project and I would also like to thank the government of China for considering my application and allowing me to climb Shishapangma this year .
Equally, I would like to thank the Ministery of foreign affairs Nepal, Department of Tourism, Embassy of a China in Nepal , NMA, CTMA, TMA and all my friends who helped me ( you all know who you are ) to make this happen. Thank you to all for taking this "Bremont Project Possible” as OUR project. My heart and soul is full of joy with mixed emotions.
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Now, you have given me the opportunity, I will deliver my promise.
I’m looking to complete this project within 6 months .
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I love you all and big thank you to my wife @sus_xox for bearing with me and being that "strong woman”- Without your support I wouldn’t have come this far.
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📸 @sandro.g.h
#thankyouchina #shishapangma #nma #ctma #tma
#highaltitudemountaineering #beliveinyourself #humanendeavour #nepal #himalayas #visitnepal2020 #savenature #gohighergobigger #projectpossible #14peaks7months #beliveinyourself #humanendeavour #extremeoftheextreme #sherpalegends #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher
Cristina Piolini, Italian lady climber and skier, summited Manaslu (8163mt) without oxygen, no direct sherpa support, on normal route on September 27th.
She was alone climbing until the top from C3, then she descended by ski all the way to C2 (with a stop in C4 for some rest) where she did a rope rappel down a high serac ; after that, she skied until Base Camp.
This is the first female descent, almost integral, by ski on Manaslu.
Btw, she said she carried up and down her own tent and materials,in a backpack of about 25kg, leaving nothing on the mountain.
Also, she started her Expedition by trekking to Bc, she finished the Expedition by trekking all the way down to Kathmandu.
(ph Cristina "Pemba Sherpa" Piolini, Facebook)
Breaking news
It seems that Nims Purja has obtained a permit to climb on Shishapangma from Chinese Authorities