1 day ago

Montagna Magica

Denis Urubko texted to Pipi Cardell that tomorrow, 16th he will start his climb on Broad Peak .

His plan is a rush from Base Camp to C3 (about 7000mt or more), then trying to summit on 17th.

Weather forecast show winds up to 70-80kmh tomorrow ; Denis said he could climb and resist up to 70kmh gusts.

He will not carry up his sat phone, unnecessary weight and because any rescue it's impossible.

Wishing him the best.
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4 days ago

Montagna Magica

Everest :
Jost Kobusch is back at Base Camp.
He never went up than his C1, so it's clear that his tracker suffered the strong winds as his tent and he never went on Chinese northern side 😊
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4 days ago

Montagna Magica

Everest :
While Alex Txikon team is forced at Base Camp due to wind damages at tents (gust 100kmh), something really weird is happening looking at Jost Kobusch tracker.
This morning (12:54 local time) seemed that Jost was looking for shelter, due to high winds, climbing near the bergschrund and crossing the China border, direction North side.
Altitude approx 6050mt.

Then, suddenly, his weird tracker, without any intermediate signs, reports his last position (5:40pm) at 6458mt on the Chinese northern flank of West Ridge!
About 500mt of vertical gain, in 5hrs, in unknown and quite steel terrain, out of the predicted route, in this weather condition, is baffling.. Let's see next tracker moves.

*** EDIT : as suspected by many experts, it turned out that the tracker went mad. Jost never leaved the area surrounding Lho La Col due to high winds, his tent was heavily shattered but stood up. He went down to BC ***

(the two icons behind his last position, marked by "J", are the Japanese route and Hornbein couloir route on North Face)
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5 days ago

Montagna Magica

A very interesting story written by the fine alpinist Korra Pesce on Instagram, about a climb of Cerro Torre and an unusual (?) traffic jam up the wall...
A worth read.
Thanks to Korra for permission to translate it also in Italian.

English :
montagnamagica.com/en/una-giornata-trafficata-sul-cerro-torre/

(ph Korra Pesce and Jorge Ackermann)
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6 days ago

Montagna Magica

Korra Pesce ha scalato in questi giorni il Cerro Torre, in team con Jorge Ackermann, per la via Tiempos Perdidos che si raccorda con la via dei Ragni.
Mi ha gentilmente concesso di tradurre i suoi post in Inglese che ha pubblicato su Instagram : un racconto veramente interessante di una particolare (o forse no) giornata di traffico...
Buona lettura!

montagnamagica.com/una-giornata-trafficata-sul-cerro-torre/

(ph Korra Pesce e Jorge Ackermann)
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6 days ago

Montagna Magica

+++ BROAD PEAK WEATHER FORECAST +++

There could be a chance for Denis Urubko for a summit push, according to some weather forecasts.
I remind you that porters are expected to arrive on February, 22th to dismantle the Base Camp.

Until Thursday 13th, strong winds and snow (but not so much) ; Denis could start his climb possibly on Friday 14th or Saturday 15th till C2, even if strong winds are expected on summit ; then Sunday 16th he could push higher than possible, 7000mt or more.
Then Monday 17th could be, if this forecast will be confirmed, a perfect summit day.
Tuesday 18th/Wednesday 19th the descent.

(ph mountain-forecast.com, meteoblue.com,freemeteo.pk)
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica

Denis Urubko is alone at Base Camp of Broad Peak.
Don Bowie and Lotta Hintsa left by helicopter as for Don lungs infection.
It's snowing, and it is expected that it will snow for some days, before a possible good weather window.

A solo of Broad Peak, in winter, facing the unkown dangers of upper plateau full of crevasses, it's so scary and dangerous that I really don't know what to think about it.

Anyway, Denis seems convinced to pursue his goal.
If there is anyone in the world who can do this, he's the man.
Wishing him best luck.
Stay safe, Denis. Please.
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica

Denis Urubko and Don Bowie are back at Base Camp.
Here Denis message :

"We are in BC; today weather is miracle for summit but I was not able to leave Don alone. He was very bad. Now he needs rest"

Best wishes for full recovery to Don!
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

Denis Urubko reports that he and Don Bowie are in tent at 7000mt, but Don "is extremely sick with pulmons".
They are drinking a soup and tomorrow morning they'll rappel down to Base Camp.

Denis also said that there are two weeks for another bid to summit.

(ph Denis Urubko by Don Bowie)
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