EVEREST ![]()
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While an avalanche, triggered by a serac fall on West shoulder, hit the Icefall and as for first report blocked the route built by the Sherpa Icefall Doctors - further update suggests route is not damaged - first case of Covid19 was reported at Base Camp, forcing the expedition members of the ill climber to respect quarantine .![]()
There are news that others climbers were evacuated or leaved the BC by helicopters .![]()
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The Nepal Government released a weird letter (in Nepalese only) which rule the climbers to "respect social distances while climbing" and declare that climbers will have their opportunity for summit bid on the base of permit serial numbers. First come first served (!?!?)![]()
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Considering that at BC there are hundreds of people waiting to climb the route, so far equipped till South Col, we'll see the evolution of these serious issues and how Authority will try to enforce the rules ( easy: they will not, they have anyone who can check a silly rule like this)![]()
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Few climbers will try to climb without oxygen : David Goettler and Killian Jornet - the last could try Everest Lhotse traverse - are the most known and experienced ![]()
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(ph by climber Shehroze Kashif ,Pakistan / the avalanche which hit the Icefall)![]()
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Where did I have seen this before ?![]()
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(ph Mingma Gyaljie Sherpa,Annapurna jumarers queue to summit few days ago)![]()
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P.S. "dear passengers, ride next stop : Dhaulagiri"![]()
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#montagnamagicaweb ![]()
#himalaya![]()
#annapurna![]()
#jumarism
Italian veteran alpine guide, strong climber Giampaolo Corona is quietly hanging around in Himalaya.![]()
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He wrote today his progress , showing a great stamina and commitment![]()
"I did not respect the normal times for acclimatization, I asked my body to ignore some flashing red lights.![]()
And I did it. Lobuche (4900 m) / Lobuche Peak East (6117) and back in 6 hours. ![]()
Now non stop I go down to Dingboche and tomorrow I go up to BC Ama Dablam.![]()
The greatest satisfaction was the compliments that the local sherpas gave me." ![]()
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(ph Giampaolo Corona)
A group of people summited Annapurna today.![]()
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* Edit: as for my Nepalese sources, 67 people summited*![]()
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For first time in history - and this is not a good record - the Leader of the commercial expeditions on Annapurna normal route, called an helicopter from Kathmandu which dropped 800mt of ropes, gear, O2 bottles,food and maybe candies at 7300mt of altitude, directly at C4 ,where the large group of people camped waiting for their Sherpas opening the highway to summit , on a hard icy final section, which is a climber activity that these people can't do by themselves.![]()
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Why? Because permit time and business needs didn't meet with wise decisions.![]()
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This has nothing to do with alpinism or climbing.![]()
Of course there are no rules and anyone could decide to be taken by helicopter directly on summit, maybe it will happen soon .![]()
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But we are free to think that this is pure madness,greed, business reserved for record-seekers.![]()
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Wish all come down safely and will not spend more words about this sad day for 8000ers mountaineering.
Cory Richards - american climber, renowned photographer and explorer (1st winter climb of Gasherbrum II with Urubko,Moro / no o2 summiter of Everest) - decided to abandon abruptly his expedition with Esteban "Topo" Mena and Carla Perez aiming at the Dhaulagiri North West Buttress and Ridge route.![]()
Cory arrived at BC few days ago, had a look and without further explanation decided to leave the team.![]()
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His partners are now shocked and disappointed-as for a Carla Perez statement- and it will be extremely difficult that a duo could go ahead with such difficult goal, considering the amount of technical work, gear and equipment that you have to carry up that incredible wall.![]()
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In the next days another trio composed by Romanian climbers Horia Colibasanu, Marius Gane and slovak Peter Hamor will try the North West Buttress and Ridge route for the third time.![]()
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The photos of NW buttress and ridge were taken by my grandfather Alfonso Bernardi in December 1975, during an aerial reconnaissance onboard a Pilatus Porter for the 1976 Spring Italian expedition.![]()
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(source news Desnivel , interview with Carla Perez)![]()
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Lettera di Norman Dyhrenfurth , alpinista, regista e leader della spedizione all'Everest nel 1963 con Hornbein, a mio nonno Alfonso Bernardi.![]()
Trovata in mezzo al libro di Hornbein "Everest West Ridge" !![]()
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Documento con budget dettagliato (!) ipotizzato per la spedizione del 1971,dove anche tramite nonno Alfonso fu invitato Carlo Mauri. ![]()
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La spedizione fini' male, con la morte di un alpinista indiano, Harsh Bahuguna,già in alto sulla montagna (vedi Wikipedia) ![]()
Tra i membri, oltre ai citati sopra, Douglas Haston, Don Whillans (uk) , Wolfgang Axt(aut) , David Isles(us), Michel Vaucher (swiss).
the beautiful wind turbine on top of Mont Blanc this morning !![]()
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(ph Captain Achab)![]()
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#alpinismo
I'm late two days but it's very important to me wishing Happy Birthday and many others days like this at Kurt Diemberger, legendary Austrian alpinist, writer,filmmaker, who turned 89 this year.![]()
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Kurt Diemberger is the only living climber who first summited two 8000ers :![]()
Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri.![]()
He also became one of first filmmakers at high altitude , then he summited K2 being 62yrs old - where sadly his partner ,Julie Tullis, climber and filmmaker,died on descent.![]()
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He was a good friend of my grandfather which was editor for his book in Italy in 1961.![]()
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here a wonderful pic took by Almo Giambisi, another friend of my grandfather, great Italian climber: "camp 1 of K2 in 1983 ,Kurt filming with Italian climber Gigio Visentin"![]()
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(ph Almo Giambisi, Facebook)![]()
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"La Nangma Valley sembra un dipinto impressionista, fatta di contrasti di colore estremi e linee astratte che puntano il cielo con stupefacente verticalità. Qualcuno la definisce la “Yosemite del Pakistan” benché qua, oltre a chilometrici castelli di granito, ci sia posto anche per l'alpinismo d'alta quota – tecnico e difficile – tipico delle montagne del Karakorum. La bellezza della valle è quasi commovente e, al contrario di altri e ben più celebri luoghi, i campi base sono solo ad un intensa giornata di cammino dalla strada."![]()
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Leggete il ritratto storico e ammirate la splendida galleria fotografica di Matteo Bedendo, che nel 2016 ha esplorato questa magica valle del Karakorum.![]()
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"The Nangma Valley looks like an impressionist painting, made of extreme color contrasts and abstract lines that point the sky with astonishing verticality. Someone calls it the "Yosemite of Pakistan" although here, in addition to kilometer-long granite castles, there is also room for high altitude mountaineering - technical and difficult - typical of the Karakorum mountains. The beauty of the valley is almost touching and, unlike other and much more famous places, the base camps are only an intense day's walk from the road."![]()
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Read the historical portrait and watch the beautiful photo gallery by Matteo Bedendo, who explored this magical Karakorum Valley in 2016.![]()
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ENGLISH CLICK HERE :![]()
montagnamagica.com/en/nangma-valley-la-yosemite-del-pakistan/
Nangma Valley : la Yosemite del Pakistan, Montagna Magica
montagnamagica.com
storia di una valle nascosta del Karakorum circondata da splendide pareti di granito di Matteo Bedendo - alpinista, fotografo / edit Federico Bernardi per...