French climber, alpine guide @charles_dubouloz has just accomplished the first winter solo ascent of one of the most famous and difficult routes in the Alps, "Rolling Stones" (1,100mt), Grandes Jorasses North Face.![]()
Located on the Walker Spur to the left of the historic Via Cassin, the route was established in July,1979 by the Czechs Thomas Prochaska, Jroslav Rutil, Ludek Schlechta and Jiri Svejda. Due to its extreme difficulties, the 1,100mt line was rarely repeated - it was considered too dangerous not only for technical problems but due to rockfalls, as name itself suggests.![]()
Charles Dubolouz spent 6 days and 5 nights on the wall, starting Jan,13th and summiting on Jan, 18th.![]()
Weather was extremely harsh due to freezing Northern winds.![]()
"My hands are broken, my feet are frozen but I have tears in my eyes. I realized my dream"![]()
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(ph Charles Dubolouz)![]()
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#montagnamagicaweb #alpinestyle #alpinismo #alpinism #winterclimbing #climbing #montblanc #grandesjorasses #alpineguide #soloclimbing #alps
A friend of mine shared this beautiful photo.![]()
Guess where and what city ?![]()
This is Beirut, Lebanon - the mountains that you see are Mount Lebanon and his range.![]()
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(ph Karim Ramadan)![]()
#montagnamagicaweb ![]()
#lebanon![]()
#mountains![]()
#climbing
* Nanga Parbat Winter *![]()
I contacted Hervé Barmasse which just descended safely at Rupal BC with David Göttler .![]()
They reached 6,200mt on Schell route, intending to go up as they could but bad weather forced them to wait in the tent and experiencing a freezing night .![]()
"It was the most difficult night of our lives" .![]()
The duo is trying to climb the highest wall in the world, 4,500mt of extremely difficult climbing, in pure alpine style .![]()
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Soon more details !![]()
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(ph Herve&David on the wall)![]()
#montagnamagicaweb #alpinismo #alpinism #winterclimbing #nangaparbat #himalaya #rupalface
I talked today with Jost Kobusch which is currently resting at Pyramid Italian Research Station near Lobuche.![]()
He is in a good mood and great shape ; his voice, his calm attitude and kindness revealed to me a humble but strong character.![]()
Definitely I didn't feel a "PR guy" ( see Messner words in ExplorersWeb article about him - that I personally felt kind of weird - considering that Jost has 22k followers on Instagram, definitely not in the range of acclaimed and super exposed climbers ) nor any ambiguity in his intentions.![]()
Anyway, he's soloing in light alpine style an intimidating and very few repeated route , the Everest West Ridge.![]()
No Sherpas,no cooks,no fixed Base Camp.![]()
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Here a preview, edited and reduced for clarity, from the interview that will be published soon on Climbing Magazine :![]()
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" The West Ridge route is definitely more harder this year. Very icy. There was more sunshine and warmer temperatures this winter; when the snow finally came it was already so icy that the snow just glided down. Therefore it's a bit more tricky to deal with that, more dangerous. [..] Up to Lho La I tried to avoid exposure to avalanches. And then from Lho La up to the spot where I placed a tiny tent that you pointed out [ndr: the highest altitude so far reached 6,450mt] it's true that it seems like I'm under this huge serac. Looks very dangerous but actually It's pretty safe. It's it's sheltered by the rock in that wall.[..]![]()
This year I don't have a base camp ; I'm staying close to the village of Lobuche in the so called Pyramid and so I established some kind of advanced base camp at 5,700 mt where I have the cache, halfway up LhoLa in the middle of the wall ; so in each rotation I can reach this camp in few hours.[..] Backpack weight 17-18kg..[..]![]()
My strategy is to learn, learn as much as possible to feel safe in each section, in this process of exploring the unknown, which is the best thing happening to me in this project and I know my chances of success are really small, but each rotation they increases a little. ![]()
My goal is to reach 8,000mt and the Hornbein Colouir for this year, placing a couple more of Camp[..] Now I'm waiting a good weather window for go back in action and climb more"![]()
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(ph Jost Kobusch/ previous expedition, first on Lho La wall, second on the West Ridge at 7,366mt , his highest point reached in 2019-20)![]()
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👉Follow me also on Facebook/website Montagna Magica and stay tuned for full interview out soon on Climbing Magazine👈![]()
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#montagnamagicaweb ![]()
#alpinestyle #alpinismo #Everest #alpinism #Himalaya #winterclimbing #climbing #everestwestridge #climbingmagazine
I hade an interesting interview with Jost Kobusch about his Everest West Ridge attempt.![]()
He gave me very detailed info about how was his approach to the route and the strategy he's trying to follow.![]()
Stay tuned for upcoming news !
Stunning Wingsuite Alpine Jump by Marco Milanese
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In questi casi, generalmente significa che il proprietario ha condiviso il contenuto solo con un gruppo ristretto di persone, ha modificato chi può vederlo oppure lo ha eliminato.
@jostkobusch Jost Kobusch reached today 6457mt on the Everest West Ridge.![]()
He just wrote on his social: " so much ice and avalanches fly down here!". As you can see, his route is threatened by huge seracs , so until 6500mt he need to be very careful and fast, keeping the left side of the rocky section.![]()
This is his 2nd Winter attempt ; in his 1st expedition, he reached 7300mt . ![]()
His intended goal is to climb the Ridge, then traverse to Hornbein Colouir and gain altitude till 8000mt .![]()
He climbs solo, without O2, in light alpine style.![]()
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(ph jost gps tracker)![]()
#montagnamagicaweb ![]()
#Everest![]()
#winterclimbing![]()
#alpinismo![]()
#alpinism![]()
#climbing
Another exceptional climb in Karakorum :![]()
The Polish duo composed by Marcin "Yeti" Tomaszewski @marcinyetitomaszewski and Damian "Dany" Bielecki @dany_bielecki opened an impressive big wall route, an incredible effort as you can see by the astounding pictures !![]()
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Uli Biaho Gallery: Frozen Fight Club A3, M7, 780mt, 16 pitches,only 9 spit leaved on the wall for rappels and hauling.. Capsule style in winter conditions.![]()
05-16.12.2021 - 11 days.![]()
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Congratulations boys ! 💪![]()
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Wish you all dear followers a great time for these holidays, see you in 2022!!![]()
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(ph @marcinyetitomaszewski )![]()
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#montagnamagicaweb ![]()
#Karakorum![]()
#ulibiaho ![]()
#bigwall![]()
#alpinismo![]()
#alpinism![]()
#climbing
Jacopo Compagnoni, 40 anni guida alpina, maestro di sci, marito, padre di due bambini, uomo stimatissimo da tutta la comunità - e fratello della pluri campionessa mondiale di sci Deborah Compagnoni, è stato travolto da una valanga in Valfurva oggi, mentre scendeva un canalone a Nord a 2850 mt di quota ; nonostante gli sforzi del compagno sci alpinista, rimasto illeso e l'intervento dell'elicottero che lo ha portato in ospedale, purtroppo non è sopravvissuto ai gravi traumi riportati.![]()
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Sono vicino a tutta la famiglia in questo terribile momento.![]()
🙏
Happy International Mountain Day to all of you, dear followers :![]()
may the mountains be magic for our souls forever !![]()
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(ph my "home" mountain, where I fell in love for hiking, climbing, snowboarding - Corno Alle Scale 1945mt , Appennino / Bologna, Italy. In the distance, to the North, the Padana valley and preAlps range)