Born 92 years ago,![]()
Walter.![]()
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(ph Alfonso Bernardi 1958, Mont Blanc area, training for Gasherbrum IV)![]()
#montagnamagicaweb #alpinestyle #alpinismo #alpinism #climbing #karakorum #WalterBonatti #gasherbrumiv
Plakias Crag, South Crete, Greece![]()
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(ph myself, 2016)![]()
#montagnamagicaweb #climbing #crete![]()
#greece #limestone
Italian climbers, Dhaulagiri immense North Face, 1976![]()
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(ph Alfonso Bernardi / montagnamagica.com arch.)![]()
#montagnamagicaweb #alpinestyle #alpinismo #alpinism #Himalaya #climbing #aquiledeltrentino #dhaulagiri #alfonsobernardi
* Changabang West Wall *![]()
Read my full story on Climbing Magazine! ![]()
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"On May 2 this year, 46 years after the first ascent, Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes from Australia and Daniel Joll from New Zealand made the second ascent of the West Wall. While they undoubtedly followed in the footsteps of the legendary alpinists before them, their ascent opened roughly 20 pitches of entirely unclimbed terrain—a significant variation to the original route.![]()
“Two plus two equals four, five, six, or maybe even seven.” Daniel Joll told Climbing, to explain his belief that a “highly functioning team is greater than the individual sum of its members.” ![]()
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My huge thanks to Daniel Joll (NZ) for his kindness to share all details, photos, diary of the epic ascent made by him, Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes (AUS) New Zealand Alpine Team![]()
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www.climbing.com/news/changabang-west-wall-himalaya-repeated/
After 46 Years Changabang’s Massive West Wall Has Finally Been Repeated
www.climbing.com
Featuring hard aid and mixed climbing at high altitude, it was of the hardest lines in the Himalaya 46 years ago.
It is incredible that last year I bought this beatiful book from the dear Colin Monteath in New Zealand.![]()
The book did a long trip (2 months and a half!) to Italy, as we are in antipodes of Kiwi Land.![]()
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And now, one year later, I'm writing about the New Zealand Alpine Team 2nd ascent, after being in contact with Daniel Joll, the New Zealand climber in team with two Aussie 😊![]()
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#montagnamagicaweb #alpinestyle #alpinismo #alpinism #Himalaya #climbing #changabang
There is a climbing all-stars team going in Karakorum in the next days.![]()
That's mean serious climbs in the best alpine style. ![]()
@jeff_t_wright , @prittyright , @colinhaley1 and @fabi_buhl![]()
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👉Stay tuned on this page, Facebook and website for news 👈![]()
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(ph Ali Muhammad Saltoro) ![]()
#montagnamagicaweb #alpinestyle #alpinismo #alpinism #Himalaya #climbing #karakorum
On this day, in 1982, great mountaineer, climber, explorer, photographer Carlo Mauri died on his Lecco mountains suffering a stroke while climbing .![]()
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Carlo Mauri, a "Ragni di Lecco" member, climbed Gasherbrum IV in 1958 with his partner Walter Bonatti, led by Riccardo Cassin.![]()
He climbed with Walter in Patagonia. ![]()
After a serious leg accident, Carlo was forced to leave serious climbing but soon he became a great explorer and photographer. ![]()
He traversed Atlantic Ocean on "Ra", a boat made by papyrus like Egyptians built at their time.![]()
He made Antarctica explorations and many other expeditions.![]()
True explorer, photographer and strong climber. ![]()
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He was a very good friend of my grandad and my personal hero during my youth.![]()
A gentle, well bearded and funny man.![]()
I miss him a lot, like I've lost a uncle and a model of life.![]()
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(ph archives Alfonso Bernardi, Mauri's book, his pics) ![]()
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#carlomauri![]()
#ragnidilecco![]()
#karakorum![]()
#patagonia ![]()
#antarctica ![]()
#exploration![]()
#alpinism![]()
#climbing![]()
#montagnamagicaweb
Alessandro Filippini, veteran mountaineering journalist, posted today:![]()
"A large number of 8000ers peaks climbed in all the possible means in a single photo- without o2 cylinders, alone, on new route, in first winter ascents, the record for the shortest time to collect them all - Here is captain Simone Moro on his helicopter with Reinhold Messner and Norwegian Kristin Harila. "![]()
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(ph from Alessandro Filippini/Simone Moro )![]()
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#montagnamagicaweb #alpinestyle #alpinismo #Everest #alpinism #Himalaya #winterclimbing #climbing #reinholdmessner #simonemoro #kristinharila
Almo Giambisi,born in 1938, one of the giant Italian climbers, alpine guide, a humble man with an incredible stamina and fitness - with more than 1000 ascents in the Alps and Dolomites, expeditions in Africa, Patagonia, alpine style climbs without oxygen on Makalu 1985, Annapurna 1986 (first Italian) , Shisha Pangma, is very active on Facebook and today posted this stunning memory of a masterpiece attempt, an epic journey without summit but full of glory:![]()
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"We are in season where people climb the 8000ers, very popular in these times. On K2 north ridge route I had to give up the summit after a bivouac at 8250 meters without a sleeping bag and without a tent, my partner Gigio Visentin had severe frostbite on his feet and I had to go down , a great experience that lasted four and a half months and there were no mobile phones in 1983."![]()
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(ph Almo Giambisi, K2/ Facebook profile)![]()
#montagnamagicaweb #alpinestyle #alpinismo #alpinism #winterclimbing #climbing #karakorum #k2 #almogiambisi
Shot from the past:![]()
Porters on the way to Dhaulagiri BC, Italian expedition 1976, February.![]()
They were almost 300 people.![]()
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Shot by my grandfather Alfonso Bernardi![]()
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#montagnamagicaweb![]()
#himalaya![]()
#dhaulagiri![]()
#alpinismo![]()
#alpinism![]()
#climbing![]()
#sherpas