11 hours ago

Montagna Magica
As happened in the past, too often, many climbers claimed to have summited Manaslu in these days.Until proper data and pictures, these claims remains unproven.For example, @thebroadboy , who claimed the summit in the caption of photo below, seems to stand on C2 fore summit.See below the summits map : 4 is the true summit, seen in 2nd&3rd photo .Of course, we'll be glad to update and correct the news, if he can provide true summit photos/data about his climb.(Ph Pakistani climber on C2 , map of Manaslu summits by Pablo Grobel/8000ers.com, the true summit by Guy Cotter)#montagnamagicaweb#manaslu#himalaya#8000ers#truesummit #alpinismo#alpinism#climbing ...
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, LEGENDS!Today 17th September is the birthday of italian/south tyrolean Reinhold Messner @reinholdmessner_official who turns 77 years old, first alpinist who climbed all 14 eight thousanders peak in 1986, without oxygen, first Everest summiteer without oxygen with Peter Habeler, first Everest solo summiter without O2 unassisted and many more ; and today is also the birthday of italian lady climber Nives Meroi,60 years old which in team with his husband Romeo Benet climbed as well all 14 eight thousanders peak without O2 in 2017, becoming the first couple to achieve this extraordinary feat.( ph Reinhold ©️ @jimherrington / ph Nives and Romeo ©️ Giacomo Maestri )#montagnamagicaweb#reinholdmessner #nivesmeroi#alpinismo#alpinism#climbing#8000ers ...
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
RAKAPOSHI : RESCUE SUCCESSFUL !pakistan climber Wajidullah Nagri , Czech climbers Jakub Vlcek and Peter Macek were successfully picked by Pakistani Army choppers at the 6200mt plateau (first photo, on the upper right).A ground team composed by pakistani brave climbers (2nf photo below),Karim Hayat, Abdul Joshi, Wahab and Sajid Ali Sadpara helped the three climbers - exhausted, with some frostbites and altitude sickness due to the long days stranded up 6900mt - during their final descent to the safety.A brilliant rescue!Thanks for info by Karim Hayat and Karim Sha Nizari ; a huge contribution were done by french climber Hélias Millerioux, who climbed recently Rakaposhi and provided the rescuers with infos,photos and logistic tips.#montagnamagicaweb #rakaposhi #karakorum#alpinismo #alpinism#climbing ...
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
** coming soon on Montagna Magica **another great climb done by some of the strongest russian alpinists.. somewhere in Tian-Shan ..👉 follow me on MontagnaMagica Instagram , Facebook and montagnamagica.com site#montagnamagicaweb#alpinismo#alpinism#climbing#tianshan ...
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
RAKAPOSHI RESCUE UPDATE Karim Hayat, Pakistani veteran climber, announced few minutes ago that the stranded team on Rakaposhi, after helicopters dropped gear and food, are descending and they just completed about 300mt from their camp at 6900mt.Karim spoke directly with them via radio.This is a great news, since there was fear some of them where unable to move. The team ,composed by Pakistani climber Wajidullah Nagri, and Czech climbers Jakub Vlcek and Peter Macek, could be rescued by helicopters if they reach the plateau showed in Karim map.*** 2nd Update from Karim:"The team descended 6350m, this is positive news, the wind is 10km, and some clouds are moving around. Keep your fingers crossed 🤞"(ph Karim Hayat based on a French team photo,2021)#montagnamagicaweb#rakaposhi #rescue#alpinismo#alpinism#karakorum ...
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2 months ago

Montagna Magica
A beautiful tribute to the great Sherpa's heart .My Sherpa brother for life.Behind the scenes, my best friend Pasang Kaji Sherpa ran our K2 logistical operation. From all that went right to all that could have gone wrong, he was the one coordinating, facilitating and orchestrating it all. The things he did on this expedition, no human being should be asked to do. Anything that was asked of him by Sajid, he did from the purest place in his heart. From helping our young hero dig a snow grave at 8000m, aiding in carefully moving his father to the burial site, assisting in covering up Juan Pablo so no one would see him, monitoring the technology recovery mission at 8300m, giving up his own food and oxygen, single handedly saving Fazal Ali’s life by forcing supplemental oxygen into him at camp 4, the list goes on and on. He’s the unsung hero here who stands quietly in the background deserving of accolades and yet would never breathe a word.We are all indebted to the incredible Sherpas of Nepal. Our good friends at Himalayan Guides / Madison Mountaineering were allies in our mission. Ang Phurba, Lakpa, Dorge, Sidi and the entire crew from Nepal, we are indebted to you for your extraordinary work on K2. Garret, Conan, John, Rob and Kenton, it was a real pleasure to have your support as our schedule ran in parallel to yours. And Lakpa, Pemba Rita and Sanu from Pioneer, this was a collective effort all around. Our Sherpa friends were the first to lay eyes upon our missing friends and we thank you for the assistance, cooperation and assisted coordination every step of the way. I’ve been learning repeated lessons in humility from these great men for 15 years and K2 has reinforced it once again. They’re the strongest climbers in the world and yet remain the most humble. The most gracious on the planet and most accomplished above the clouds and yet never breathe a word of the difficulty and hardship. To my friend Pasang - you went above and beyond. Thank you for being the human being that you are, the leader that you are and the friend that you are for life.🙏🏻🙏🏻#K2winter2021 #k2winter #k2 #Pakistan #MohammedAliSadpara #JohnSnorri #JuanPabloMohr ...
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2 months ago

Montagna Magica
When I read this news my first reaction was like "that's a joke!" ,I smiled and I felt so happy.In my short career as amateur writer and chronicler in mountaineering, a special person gave me lots of help, hints, encouragement and the rare opportunity to write for @rockandicemag in English.I call him "my editor",@odm_2.0 Michael Levy.I knew he was somewhere in the Andes, but I didn't know he was climbing with badass @adamtheclimber Adam Bielecki .They just opened a new line in Perù, on the South Wall of Janyaraju,5625mt - "Cita a Ciegas" 500mt D+,M4 with an average 60°/70° and a maximum 85° slope.Awesome climb, my friends!(ph Polski Himalaizm Sportowi)#montagnamagicaweb #andes#perú #janyaraj#alpinismo #andinismo #alpinism #climbing ...
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2 months ago

Montagna Magica
the most disturbing news so far from Broad Peak.This is plain horrible.Lotta Hintsa, The Finnish Climber who has been attempting to climb Broad Peak along with Canadian Don Bowie, revealed the terrible state of poor Selena Khawaja, who has been alone in the Base Camp for a few days hoping to climb Broad Peak. Her father Yousaf Khawaja who accompanied her to the base camp, albiet too late, felt sick to the extent that he was evacuated to Skardu by Helis. Leaving 12-year-old Selena at the mercy of porters and had ordered her to follow the porters to the top of Broad Peak and not to call off the expedition. Scared Selena, yesterday, refused to climb alone and she has also been evacuated by Pakistani Army helis. Nothing can more understate the irresponsible behavior of father Yousaf Khawaja who risked the life of his own daughter and the sponsors who financed such an expedition. With the craze of climbing sweeping like wildfire in Pakistan, hordes of untrained and irresponsible climbing enthusiast are set to create more problems for themselves and others at high altitudes.📷 Selenakhawaja FB______________________________Follow us for breaking news and updates in climbing across Pakistan_______________________________________________for climbing expeditions and guided tours winters/summers check our website www.pakistan-explorer.com________________________________E-mail: [email protected]___________________________________❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄❄#k2 #himalayas #karakorum #broadpeak #icefall #windspeed #badweather #jetstream #savagemountain #climbing #winterexpedition #cold #pakistan #donbowie #lottahintsa #jonsnorri #mingmasherpa #firstwinterascent #8000ers #trekking #survival #fitness #acclimitization #pakistanexplorer#pe ...
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2 months ago

Montagna Magica
maybe we'll know what happened on their last climb. ...
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