"I had felt strong since we left Camp 2 at 5500m at around 0130 but now the altitude meant that the few steps I was taking were backed up by rests and heavy breathing. Progress was slow and I could see Messner in his hooded down jacket ahead of me.
Aside from my body my mind was feeling the altitude too, playing tricks on me and polluting my concentration with confusion and playful misinformation. It was not Messner I reminded myself every so often, It was ‘Jumpy’ an Italian Guide from the Dolomites."
A Story of Altitude, Style, Exhaustion and Friendship.
Read here (also in Italian)
montagnamagica.com/en/altitudine-stile-e-sfinimento-sullo-spantik/
Altitude, Style and Exhaustion : a Spantik Climb, Montagna Magica
montagnamagica.com
Spantik Base Camp (c) Graham Wyllie"Mi sentivo in gran forma quando abbiamo lasciato il Campo 2 a 5500 m verso le 01:30 di mattina, ma ora l’altitudine rendeva i pochi passi che stavo facendo pieni da pause e respiro pesante. I progressi erano lenti e ho avuto l’allucinazione di vedere Messner con una giacca con cappuccio davanti a me.
A parte il mio corpo, anche la mia mente sentiva l’altitudine, giocando brutti scherzi e inquinando la mia concentrazione con confusione e giocandosi di me. Non era Messner che vedevo ogni tanto, era “Jumpy” (“Giampi” Corona,NdR) una guida italiana delle Dolomiti"
Una storia di altitudine, stile alpino, sfinimento e amicizia.
*Continuate a leggere qui (also available in English) *
montagnamagica.com/altitudine-stile-e-sfinimento-sullo-spantik/
Preparando l'articolo con storia e intervista di Graham Wyllie, alpinista scozzese diventato amico e Giampaolo Corona sulla loro scalata allo Spantik (7027mt, Pakistan) ho avuto ieri una lunga e intensa chiacchierata con Giampaolo, scoprendo cose in comune, connessioni incredibili e ascoltando storie del suo alpinismo leggero e pulito che basterebbero per un libro.
È proprio forte il "filo" tra la famiglia Bernardi e la Valle del Primiero, dalla spedizione di nonno sul Dhaulagiri del 1976 in poi.
Felicissimo di aver trovato un nuovo amico, un fortissimo alpinista, guida alpina, soccorritore (e pure alpino paracadutista, a suo tempo).
Soprattutto, un uomo - che come me, nella mia modesta veste di cronista - sulla montagna non cerca il solo gesto tecnico, L'obiettivo della Vetta ma l'avventura e la conoscenza delle persone.
Presto, spero, tutta la storia e le belle foto su montagnamagica.com e sherpa-gate.com
(ph Giampaolo Corona C3, Spantik / di Graham Wyllie)
Soon on montagnamagica.com and sherpa-gate.com the story of the first high altitude, alpine style summit for Scottish climber Graham Wyllie : Spantik (7027mt) in Pakistan,occurred last 2019 summer.
Graham met there and joined the veteran Italian alpine guide Giampaolo Corona, a 8000ers experienced climber.
Graham wrote a very nice and detailed story of his experience and also gave me an interview.
"For the altitude I did nothing specific before the trip. The highest point in Scotland is 1345m so trying to get some natural acclimatization beforehand would have meant going abroad. I was more focused on fitness and my energy levels. I had quit my job at the beginning of the summer of 2018 and spent 2 months in the Alps. This combined with a lot of winter climbing in Scotland inadvertently provided me with a large specific base of aerobic fitness. "
Article will be available both English /Italian version
(ph Graham Wyllie, Spantik BC 2019)
Today, 90 years ago, Walter Bonatti was born in Bergamo
(ph by Fosco Maraini 1958, mont Blanc training before Gasherbrum IV expedition, archives Alfonso Bernardi)
This is an amazing news, I strongly hope that this treatment against Covid19 will be successful as looks in this trial.
Would be incredible if a standard high altitude drug could be the silver bullet against this pandemic!
""This is a routine/basic treatment for cerebral oedema in high altitude medicine. We have all carried it in our medical packs. I learnt to inject it in Everest BC using an orange as a dummy fellow climber. Why was this not tried before when the symptoms are so similar 🧐?? "
(thanks Masha Gordon for sharing the news)"
www.bbc.com/news/health-53061281
Life-saving coronavirus drug 'major breakthrough'
www.bbc.com
Patients should be given the cheap drug without delay, after "fantastic" trial results, experts say.On this day, in 1982, great mountaineer, climber, explorer, photographer Carlo Mauri died on his mountains suffering a stroke.
Carlo Mauri, a Ragni di Lecco member, climbed Gasherbrum IV in 1958 with his partner Walter Bonatti, led by Riccardo Cassin.
He also traversed Atlantic Ocean on "Ra", a boat made by papyrus like Egyptians built at their time.
He made Antarctica explorations and many other expeditions.
True explorer, photographer and strong climber.
He was a very good friend of my grandad and my personal hero during my young days.
A gentle, well bearded and funny man.
I miss him a lot, like I've lost a uncle and a model of life.
(ph archives Alfonso Bernardi, Mauri's book, his pics)
#carlomauri
#ragnidilecco
#karakorum
#alpinism
#climbing
#montagnamagicaweb
This night, something completely different for you.
This page, today, reached 7000 followers; it's overwhelming to me, as the spectacular view that I had last night, at 3 Am Italian time.
It's a blurry image I got using a Canon 600d camera connected to a 150mm telescope.
Saturn.
God bless the explorers, both on mountains as in the sky, like the two guys who departed just now with SpaceX Falcon
Watch the beatiful trailer of "The Wall of Shadows".
VIDEO: The Wall of Shadows [Trailer] - Rock and Ice
rockandice.com
"The idea for the film 'The Wall of Shadows' was to tell a story of an encounter between Sherpas and climbers at the foot of the sacred mountain."Today, May 29th in 1953 two gentlemen stood on top of Everest for the very first time.
Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, friends until the end of their extraordinary life.