Le retour à l’âge d’or

Between the end of summer and the first month of Autumn 2016, the high altitude mountaineering has experienced a withering period of extraordinary climbing in Nepal, India and China.

The common characteristics of very different climbs  are small teams,alpine style, the search for aesthetic lines, in difficult mixed terrain, with a style and an ethic that recall the golden age (thanks to Stefano Lovison for this happy synthesis) of the 80s and ’90, a new route vision on steep and technical lines.

Among the expeditions that have achieved extraordinary feats, we have choosen these pair, which we consider particularly significant:

  • Direttissima “Moveable Feast” Sergey Nilov, Dmitry Grigoriev and Dmitry Golovchenko (RU). North Buttress thalay sagar, 6904 meters, 1600 meters long, 1200 elevation, averaging 62 ° tilt and 71 ° Average wall – 09.15.2016. New way with some common parts with previous streets, is plumb. They didn’t use a portaledge, only a tent, so this may be aconsidered  first alpine style ascent.
  • “Great Escape” Nyainqentangla, 7046 meters, 1600 meters of development, South East via the North Buttress, Nick Bullock and Paul Ramdsen (UK). First ascent. Oct 5, 2016
Nyainqentangla South East
Nyainqentangla South East, 7 days of climbing

 

thalay sagar north
thalay sagar north (credit mountain.ru ), 8 days of climbing

Leave a Reply