1958 : Cassin and Bonatti Revenge

g4 campo combe maudite 1

The Gasherbrum IV italian team, lead by Cassin with Walter Bonatti, Carlo Mauri, Toni Gobbi, Giuseppe Oberto, Bepi De Francesch and Fosco Maraini as photo video operator and writer.

These pics are related to the training on Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc Massif.

Primary Link | Secondary Link


Mauri,Gobbi,Oberto,Cassin,Bonatti and Fosco Maraini



Kelly Cordes (c) Cerro Torre
                                                                                                                                                           Kelly Cordes (c) Cerro Torre


“with full respect to the current rate of progression and the next-level skills of today’s top climbers, I think it’s fair to say that the single biggest change in the history of Patagonian climbing occurred far from the mountains, circa 2005.”

continue reading the original Kelly Cordes article on his website

This is a preview of a series of pictures, dated late 1975; an aerial reconnaissance of the mountain before the italian expedition of Aquile del Trentino , spring 1976. The Author was a member of that expedition as Scientific Director and Writer


dhaulagiri ne buttress
Dhaulagiri ,North East Buttress. Approx 5000 mt., Pilatus Porter – aerial reconnaissance by Alfonso Bernardi

Leonard Carrel 1871-1940

Leonard Carrel - Guida del Cervino, 1930

Son of Jean-Antoine , “il Bersagliere”, “THE Matterhorn Guide”, an extraordinary career and a Guide of strong ethical values


Leonard Carrel, guida Cervino - Capanna Jurneaux 1930


  • 56 Matterhorn Ascents
  • 40 years as an alpine guide
  • first ascents on various Mte Rosa routes
  • ascents on Pennine Alps and Bern Alps


Son of the illustrious JeanAntoine, the Matterhorn Guidepar excellence; appointed bearer May 20, 1894, and guide June 19, 1899, carried out his mountaineering activities up to 1939, climbing the Matterhorn fifty-six times, and making ascents in the Monte Rosa massif and the highest peaks of the Pennine and Bernese Alps. On April 10 1904, with mountaineer Gabriel De Bottini and the other guide Valtournanche Abel Pession, he did make   the first ascent of Mont Avi or Au (3,006 meters, Valle d’Aosta) to the south ridge; in 1938, at sixty-seven, yet he made the ascent of the Breithorn (4165 meters). He died in Cervinia on December 24 1940.

Appena trovato negli archivi di Alfonso Bernardi, alpinista, scrittore, sociologo : sua ispezione fotografica aerea del…

Pubblicato da Montagna Magica su Sabato 5 marzo 2016












Cerro Torre rock falls (c) Lauri Hmlinen,2016 Cerro Torre rockfall  (c) Lauri Hmlinen

“The extreme heat of the last few summers, and the heat of the five summer weeks we had this year, without a doubt have an impact on the permafrost, making the mountains more unstable”

Rolando Garibotti (c) Black Diamond
Rolando Garibotti 


The amazing series of ascents along the Patagonic granite towers, a continuous flow of lines repeated in speed, in free climb for the first time, the traverse crossing record achieved by “Captain Safety” Colin Haley along with Alex Honnold – btw we’ll must talk about what this duo, a perfect merge of very different styles, had been able to show : the vitality and the purest form of alpinism  – seems to have no end, because of a long good weather window  that lasted a month and a half of good and hot weather. Rolando Garibotti, guardian, mentor and singer of all Patagonic ascents and sensitive, ethical and environment “guru”, writes the downside of this extraordinary hot patagonic summer, caused by increasing climate changes , on his Facebook page Patagonia Vertical.



Cerro Torre flake fall (c) Gabi Fava  Cerro Torre flake fall (c) Gabi Fava

Contacted by montagnamagica, with his usual courtesy kindlyallowed us to translate his note of alarm, not coincidentally entitled “Achtung” (danger in german language):

“On January 20th, when Iaki (Coussirat ndR) died on the east face of Fitz, the result of rockfall, Gabi Fava and Martin Lopez Abad witnessed the fall of an enormous flake on the headwall of Cerro Torre. That day the freezing level was at 3800m, and there was rockand ice fall everywhere. Gabi relays that when t hey returned sometime later, with the freezing level at 3100m, everything was quite still. Although one could conclude that the freezing level is the key, the problem is rather more complex. The extreme heat of the last few summers, and the heat of the five summer weeks we had this year, without a doubt have an impact on the permafrost, making the mountains more unstable. Freezing level should be a consideration when choosing an objective but also perhaps it is time to start considering off-limits certain objectives during particularly warm summers, such as this one, regardless of the freezing level of one particular day. This learning has occurred in the Alps in the last couple of decades, it may be time to follow their example down here.”

 In the same post, a comment confirms Rolo analysis : the Finnish climber Lauri Hmlinen publishes a beautiful and at the same time impressive pic of the South Wall Cerro Torre, viewed from Polacos (base camp) where we can observe the rock fall that raises huge dust in the central part of the wall, right upon the huge vertical plate photographed and showed above by Gabi Fava, just below the summit mushroom , which is also seems getting smaller year after year.