Between the end of summer and the first month of Autumn 2016, the high altitude mountaineering has experienced a withering period of extraordinary climbing in Nepal, India and China.

The common characteristics of very different climbs  are small teams,alpine style, the search for aesthetic lines, in difficult mixed terrain, with a style and an ethic that recall the golden age (thanks to Stefano Lovison for this happy synthesis) of the 80s and ’90, a new route vision on steep and technical lines.

Among the expeditions that have achieved extraordinary feats, we have choosen these pair, which we consider particularly significant:

  • Direttissima “Moveable Feast” Sergey Nilov, Dmitry Grigoriev and Dmitry Golovchenko (RU). North Buttress thalay sagar, 6904 meters, 1600 meters long, 1200 elevation, averaging 62 ° tilt and 71 ° Average wall – 09.15.2016. New way with some common parts with previous streets, is plumb. They didn’t use a portaledge, only a tent, so this may be aconsidered  first alpine style ascent.
  • “Great Escape” Nyainqentangla, 7046 meters, 1600 meters of development, South East via the North Buttress, Nick Bullock and Paul Ramdsen (UK). First ascent. Oct 5, 2016
Nyainqentangla South East
Nyainqentangla South East, 7 days of climbing


thalay sagar north
thalay sagar north (credit ), 8 days of climbing

1976: “the Eagles” of San Martino , Trentino, Italia

  Italian Expedition with Sherpa

The italian Guides “Eagles of San Martino” and the Sherpas

On February,23th 1976 italian expedition of the Eagles of San Martino and Primiero left from Milan to Kathmandu, as follows: Renzo Debertolis expedition leader, Francesco Santon deputy, the Eagles Camillo De Paoli, Gian Paolo De Paoli, Luciano Gadenz, Gian Pietro Scalet, Silvio Simoni, Giampaolo Zortea, Edward Zagonel, mountaineers Sergio Martini and Luigi Henry, Poluzzi Achille medic and writer Alfonso Bernardi assistant and author of the chronicle of those moments in the book “Trentini on Dhaulagiri 8172 m.”

ritorno dalla Vetta!

the descent from summit. Giampaolo Zortea and Silvio Simoni, the two mountaineers that succeeded to top out. Luciano Gadenz went down from around 7950 mt. due to freezing toes.

portatori verso CB

On May,4th 1976 Alpine Guides Giampaolo Zortea and Silvio Simoni, stood on the summit of Dhaulagiri wrapped in the storm, at 8,172 meters, their ice axes with  Italian, Nepalese and of course the Eagles flags. It was the first eight thousand conquered by an expedition by Trentino mountaineers and, the third eight thousand conquered by Italian. The value of this  mountaineering feat is well difficult to place in an absolute ranking, as it is formed by too many elements, human, technical, environmental and even in weightlessness, but it can be said that the climb to the Dhaulagiri 1976 deserves a place of highest order. “Valuable Success” headlined an article by Alessandro Pillory (known mountaineer and writer) on “Tuttosport” of June 12th, 1976. ( fonte: )French Pass Glacier Dhaulagiri

the glacier from the French Pass and the route on the right towards the Col and Northeast Ridge

  Campo Base Italiano


Base Camp later called “the Italians”. Below, the “cathedral” north of Dhaulagiri.

    parete Nord Dhaulagiri

This incredible pic shows how many porters were hired by italians.

All rights reserved (c) Alfonso Bernardi –  Bernardi family

December, 1975: Alfonso Bernardi shots  Dhaulagiri North flanks, NW ridge and buttress from a Pilatus Porter , as a member of next  Italian Expedition Aquile del Trentino, 1976

1958 : Cassin and Bonatti Revenge

g4 campo combe maudite 1

The Gasherbrum IV italian team, lead by Cassin with Walter Bonatti, Carlo Mauri, Toni Gobbi, Giuseppe Oberto, Bepi De Francesch and Fosco Maraini as photo video operator and writer.

These pics are related to the training on Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc Massif.

Primary Link | Secondary Link


Mauri,Gobbi,Oberto,Cassin,Bonatti and Fosco Maraini



Kelly Cordes (c) Cerro Torre
                                                                                                                                                           Kelly Cordes (c) Cerro Torre


“with full respect to the current rate of progression and the next-level skills of today’s top climbers, I think it’s fair to say that the single biggest change in the history of Patagonian climbing occurred far from the mountains, circa 2005.”

continue reading the original Kelly Cordes article on his website

This is a preview of a series of pictures, dated late 1975; an aerial reconnaissance of the mountain before the italian expedition of Aquile del Trentino , spring 1976. The Author was a member of that expedition as Scientific Director and Writer


dhaulagiri ne buttress
Dhaulagiri ,North East Buttress. Approx 5000 mt., Pilatus Porter – aerial reconnaissance by Alfonso Bernardi

Leonard Carrel 1871-1940

Leonard Carrel - Guida del Cervino, 1930

Son of Jean-Antoine , “il Bersagliere”, “THE Matterhorn Guide”, an extraordinary career and a Guide of strong ethical values


Leonard Carrel, guida Cervino - Capanna Jurneaux 1930


  • 56 Matterhorn Ascents
  • 40 years as an alpine guide
  • first ascents on various Mte Rosa routes
  • ascents on Pennine Alps and Bern Alps


Son of the illustrious JeanAntoine, the Matterhorn Guidepar excellence; appointed bearer May 20, 1894, and guide June 19, 1899, carried out his mountaineering activities up to 1939, climbing the Matterhorn fifty-six times, and making ascents in the Monte Rosa massif and the highest peaks of the Pennine and Bernese Alps. On April 10 1904, with mountaineer Gabriel De Bottini and the other guide Valtournanche Abel Pession, he did make   the first ascent of Mont Avi or Au (3,006 meters, Valle d’Aosta) to the south ridge; in 1938, at sixty-seven, yet he made the ascent of the Breithorn (4165 meters). He died in Cervinia on December 24 1940.

Appena trovato negli archivi di Alfonso Bernardi, alpinista, scrittore, sociologo : sua ispezione fotografica aerea del…

Pubblicato da Montagna Magica su Sabato 5 marzo 2016












Cerro Torre rock falls (c) Lauri Hmlinen,2016 Cerro Torre rockfall  (c) Lauri Hmlinen

“The extreme heat of the last few summers, and the heat of the five summer weeks we had this year, without a doubt have an impact on the permafrost, making the mountains more unstable”

Rolando Garibotti (c) Black Diamond
Rolando Garibotti 


The amazing series of ascents along the Patagonic granite towers, a continuous flow of lines repeated in speed, in free climb for the first time, the traverse crossing record achieved by “Captain Safety” Colin Haley along with Alex Honnold – btw we’ll must talk about what this duo, a perfect merge of very different styles, had been able to show : the vitality and the purest form of alpinism  – seems to have no end, because of a long good weather window  that lasted a month and a half of good and hot weather. Rolando Garibotti, guardian, mentor and singer of all Patagonic ascents and sensitive, ethical and environment “guru”, writes the downside of this extraordinary hot patagonic summer, caused by increasing climate changes , on his Facebook page Patagonia Vertical.



Cerro Torre flake fall (c) Gabi Fava  Cerro Torre flake fall (c) Gabi Fava

Contacted by montagnamagica, with his usual courtesy kindlyallowed us to translate his note of alarm, not coincidentally entitled “Achtung” (danger in german language):

“On January 20th, when Iaki (Coussirat ndR) died on the east face of Fitz, the result of rockfall, Gabi Fava and Martin Lopez Abad witnessed the fall of an enormous flake on the headwall of Cerro Torre. That day the freezing level was at 3800m, and there was rockand ice fall everywhere. Gabi relays that when t hey returned sometime later, with the freezing level at 3100m, everything was quite still. Although one could conclude that the freezing level is the key, the problem is rather more complex. The extreme heat of the last few summers, and the heat of the five summer weeks we had this year, without a doubt have an impact on the permafrost, making the mountains more unstable. Freezing level should be a consideration when choosing an objective but also perhaps it is time to start considering off-limits certain objectives during particularly warm summers, such as this one, regardless of the freezing level of one particular day. This learning has occurred in the Alps in the last couple of decades, it may be time to follow their example down here.”

 In the same post, a comment confirms Rolo analysis : the Finnish climber Lauri Hmlinen publishes a beautiful and at the same time impressive pic of the South Wall Cerro Torre, viewed from Polacos (base camp) where we can observe the rock fall that raises huge dust in the central part of the wall, right upon the huge vertical plate photographed and showed above by Gabi Fava, just below the summit mushroom , which is also seems getting smaller year after year.