In these hours a stunning First Ascent was achieved on Chamlang (7319 m), Nepal by Czech climbers Marek Holeček and Zděnek Hák. The difficult, technical route goes up straight to the North West Face, the two climbers are descending from South side and ran out of food since 2 days ; they are already near the glacier at the bottom and this night could possibly be the last bivouac before reaching the safety. Details will follow in next days.
Finest climbers of Nepal and Pakistan meet together in Himalaya : Kami Sherpa, 24 times Everest summiter and Muhammad Ali Sadpara, 5 8000rs in Pakistan, 1st winter climb of Nanga Parbat, now summited Lhotse and committed to climb Makalu in these days
@marcomilaneseguide Flight from Cima Grande, Lavaredo (Italy)
This jump was the last step in his free solo climb and base jump from each of the Three Lavaredo Tower. Two base jump and this last awesome wingsuit base.
I'm grateful that Marco, a brilliant Alpine guide, slackliner, base and wingsuit jumper, shared with me his best videos (check on YouTube "Trittico a Lavaredo" full videos with my soundtrack and edit), check also on montagnamagica.com his interviews.
A family friend of the Malaysian climber Chin Wui Kin, saved after being stranded two days up 7500mt on Annapurna, without oxygen nor shelter after having summited despect his oxygen supply were gone, just released the sad news that he died in Singapore Hospital, where he was transferred from Kathmandu due to his critical health conditions.
"Chin Wui Kin continue his journey to a better place this morning.
May he be blessed and happy always wherever he may be
If you aren’t willing to act at the point of emergency, why sell the service in the first place ? I’m very upset and angry with the rescue company that Dr Chin was a customer of.
Bare in mind Annapurna 1 is not Everest or any other 8000ers . It’s one of most dangerous and hardest 8000m peak to climb. As a leader of fixing lines/ropes on this mountain, I hadn’t slept for days during the summit push as we had to start early so that the ropes and trail blazing is done before the main team commits. Almost all of the season mountaineers thought it was impossible to summit Annapurna due to snow conditions.
After knowing that Dr Chin was missing, I held my team and some of the strongest members on the Expedition for the rescue of Dr Chin at camp 4. We were waiting for Oxygen to get dropped off at us by helicopter so we could go start searching for him on the mountains. ( this is all what his insurance company had to do , just drop 6 bottles of Oxygen at Camp 4 where I was on standby with my rescue team)
I was told that the rescue company denied the emergency help and I couldn’t hold my team any longer at the extreme altitude risking their life. I was the last man to leave camp 4 and I had thought he was possibly dead by then on those dangerous slopes.
I arrived at the base camp with my team very late that night. Next morning, I could hear a helicopter which went on Recce and I was told Mr Chin is alive. His wife paid for the helicopter to go and confirm.
After sleeping for only 4 hrs, Project Possible 14/7 team ( @nimsdai, @mingma_david_sherpa @galjen_s2009 @gesmantamang ) were triggered for the rescue mission
What it took us 16 hrs to get to Dr Chins location on the summit push from camp 3, we cover the same distance in 4 hrs at this emergency situation.
Finally we got him down to camp 3, from where he was picked by heli on longline. He’s critical at the hospital and his life is still in danger and even if he survive he may lose his limbs. This could have been easily avoided. . . #projectpossible #nimsdai ...