4 days ago

Montagna Magica

@jeff_t_wright, @prittyright with Ali Saltoro @alpine_adventure_guides and Abu Zafar Sadiq President Alpine Club of Pakistan on their debriefing about K6 expedition.
The Wrights are now on their flight back to US

(ph courtesy Ali Saltoro)
#montagnamagicaweb
#karakorum
#k6
#alpinismo
#alpinism
#climbing
#jeffandpritiwright
#alpinevagabonds
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5 days ago

Montagna Magica

"Topping the Unclimbed peak"

🔜The full story of this awesome climb soon to come on Rock and Ice magazine
montagnamagica.com & sherpa-gate.com

➡️Follow us on Facebook & Instagram

#montagnamagicaweb
#karakorum
#k6
#alpinismo
#alpinism
#climbing
#jeffandpritiwright
#alpinevagabonds
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica

Had a long and great video chat with Eberhard Jurgalski, aka Buddha of Lorrach, aka the man behind 8000ers.com, the main and comprehensive source on history of high altitude climbing - aside Himalayan Database, which indeed doesn't cover Karakorum.

His invaluable and continuos hard work on fact, statistics, summits, topography , climbers is a very difficult one, sometimes painful for the consequences, getting deep into climbers claims and feat, only for passion, without sponsors.

I strongly encourage climbers, passionate, to help with a little contribution to his site.
You'll find Paypal button in the main page of
8000ers.com
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica

Had a very pleasant (first 😁) chat with these beatiful couple: Priti @prittyright & Jeff Wright @jeff_t_wright , now in Islamabad with Ali Muhammad Saltoro @alpine_adventure_guides . As their first expedition on Asian high range they did the (third ascent) K6 west 7040mt and (first ascent) K6 central 7100mt, following the route on West Face that Bennett-Zimmerman used for their descent in 2015. What else? (cit) 9 days on mountain / 6 x ascent , 3 x descent, 19 abalakov rappells Deep snow, cold like Winter, 20kg of backpack each BONUS : it seems that K6 Central is 7155mt, not 7100mt, according to Eberhard Jurgalski Sat and topo studies as well as from gps barometric results took by Jeff. To be confirmed! Soon on @rockandicemag article, details
Follow also montagnamagica.com
(video Priti Wright, K6 central summit ) #montagnamagicaweb #karakorum #k6 #alpinismo #alpinism #climbing #jeffandpritiwright
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica

Jeff and Priti Wright, looking wonderful and happy are
"back to civilization" as Ali Saltoro, manager of Alpine Adventure Guides, their logistic & support agency posted now.

Enjoying a well deserved nice pie!

(ph Courtesy Ali saltoro, Jeff&Priti with Ali, with Staff and on K6 central summit)
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

I got in touch with Jeff and Priti Wright, their trip in Karakorum will last another week.
I'm very proud to announce that I will have an exclusive interview with them for an upcoming article on Rock and Ice magazine - and on sherpa-gate.com in italian- about their important climb on K6 West and Central Summit.

Stay tuned!
Please follow this page also on Instagram.

(ph courtesy Jeff and Priti Wright, Ali Saltoro)
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

Peter Zabrok shot this in 2019, about a year ago, while he was up to 2300' climbing “New Dawn” route on El Capitan with Justin Lawrence.

Peter was on hooks and captured this beatiful moment of elegance and stoke (as Alex might says, adding "no big deal, I'm roped" 😊), climbing the most iconic wall in Yosemite.

Alex Honnold was working the free line with Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.

Alex Holdsnnold? ✋🖐️💪😁

Justin Lawrence commented on this :

"What a special wall experience that was for me. Yosemite is a magical place. The center of the universe."

Peter "Pass the Pitons Pete " Zabrok is a big wall legend.
Few days ago he wrote on Facebook :
"It's my 800th NIGHT ON EL CAP! Not counting base and summit bivys, eh? This will be my 63rd different El Cap route."

If you're interested about how you can do the big wall job, grab&read&study the last book of Peter Zabrok and Fabio Elli "Hooking Up"
(see f.e. blissclimbing.com/fr/blog/2019/11/19/book-review-hooking-up-the-ultimate-big-wall-and-aid-climbin...)

(ph and courtesy by Peter Labrok / double courtesy by Justin Lawrence. See in the first comment the pic of Band of Wall Bros. )
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

K6 FLASH****

Jeff & Priti Wright are safe and sound, just arrived back to K6 Base Camp, after their great ascent to K6west and K6 central summits!

"we arrived in base camp this evening. Warm welcome from staff!!"

Jeff and Priti expedition journey is not yet finish :they have another trekking permit to Churaksa K6 and K7 churaksa valley which will start on 16 October.

I wonder how much are strong and full of stamina this beatiful couple, taking a stroll after such epic climb!
Considering the few 2020's notable climbs, I'll put 2€ betting on a Piolet D'Or for them.

(info & ph gently provided by Ali Saltoro)
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

Following the only serious climbing expedition in these Covid hard times, the K6 quest of Jeff&Priti Wright, I have to admit that I barely knew this couple of American climbers that just summited K6 West summit (7040mt, 3rd climb ever) then K6 Central summit (7100mt, 1st climb in history).
And remember, K6 was a goal dreamed and attempted by many accomplished climbers, not an easy one.

Waiting for their safe return at Base Camp, I would like to share what I've found on their climbing experience.

This on K6 seems to be their first serious expedition on high altitude, but they trained hard on awesome mountains and hard routes ,Patagonia, Alps, US, Canada, as for their last 3 years resumé :

"2020
The Eiger North Face, 1938 Heckmair Route, The Eiger (V, 5c, AI4, M5, 1600m)
Via dei Ragni, Cerro Torre (V, 90deg snow/ice, M4, 600m)
Anglo-Americana, Aguja Rafael Juárez (IV, 6c, 400m)
Whillans-Cochrane, Aguja Poincenot (IV, 5+, 70deg snow/ice, M4, 550m)
Cara Este, Mojon Rojo (III, 4, 30deg snow, 150m)
Cara Este, Cerro Solo (III, 3, 50deg snow/ice)

2019
All Along the Watchtower, North Howser Tower, Bugaboos (VI, 5.10/C2-, 3000ft)
Lost Arrow Chimney, Yosemite (IV, 5.10 A2, 1100ft)
Franco-Argentina, Fitz Roy, Patagonia (V, 55° 5.10 C1, 2100ft)
The Plum, Pemberton, Canada (III, WI5, 1000ft)
Amadeus, Canadian Rockies (WI4 M5)

2018
Southern Pickets Traverse, North Cascades, 2nd ascent (VI, 5.10+, ca. 3 miles)
Cassin Ridge, Denali, Alaska Range (Alaska Grade V, 5.8, AI4, 8000ft) (Uphill Athlete TR)
Salathé, El Capitan, Yosemite, 40hrs (VI, 5.9 C2, 3500ft)
Mount Rainier, Cascades (Gibraltar Ledges, Kautz, Liberty Ridge, Disappointment Cleaver)
Coyne Crack, Indian Creek (5.11d trad flash)
Crime of the Century, Squamish (5.11c trad)

Jeff: B.S. Aerospace and Mechanical Engineering, 2010, University of Florida
Priti: B.S. Computer Science, 2009, Florida State University "

(ph and info alpinevagabonds.com, Priti website)
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica

K6 UPDATE!

Jeff and Priti Wright TODAY summited also K6 central peak (7100mt) after having summited K6 West peak (7040mt).

*This is the FIRST ascent of K6 Central so far! *


Jeff message to Ali Saltoro :
"First Ascent of K6 Central by Jeff and Priti Wright. We will not attempt K6 Main
Heading down today. Expect to be at base camp Monday or Tuesday."

They decided to don't try the K6 main summit (7282mt) due to deep snow and cold, so they are descending to BC

Now it's clear that the goal of the US couple was climbing the entire K6 ridge (k6 west, central, main). An enormous task which they didn't complete but what they had done is just awesome.

(news by Ali Saltoro, ph k6 (c) Jimmy Chin
)
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