3 days ago

Montagna Magica
ho ricevuto il bellissimo e atteso libro di Ermanno Salvaterra "Patagonia: il grande sogno"edito da Libri Mondadori e disponibile da ieri in tutti gli store e librerie italiane.L'esperienza straordinaria (e l'amore) di Ermanno sul Cerro Torre e le altre magnifiche spire di granito patagonico - oltre a una ricchissima scelta di splendide fotografie e grande cura editoriale - garantiscono una lettura appassionata delle storie raccontate con uno stile semplice, solido ed evocativo.Consigliatissimo, sicuro e speranzoso che verrà tradotto in inglese per raggiungere l'ampia platea di innamorati scalatori o semplici appassionati della magnifica regione patagonica. ...
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica
veteran Italian climber, alpine guide, mountain rescuer Giampaolo Corona did an impressive, fast , alpine style climb solo on the iconic Himalayan peak.He wrote:"30/04/2021# AmaDablam2021Summit. I did it.The climbing sherpas shook their heads when I explained what I wanted to do, which was a pull from C1 to the top. Too long, they said, live ice above 6,400. I've done it. Just under eight hours from C1 to the top. Bad weather from the middle of the climb up. Several sherpa climbers with clients - BC, as I said, has become very populated these days - came back [among other things I was the only one without a climbing sherpa].Arrived at the top with fog, without problems. Heavy snow downhill, arrival at C1. The idea was to pull up to BC, but it was snowing harder and harder, it was 7pm and it was starting to get dark. At that point I stopped and this morning I went down to BC safely in an hour and a half.It's a tough mountain. Technical passages, rock, as a mountaineer. And then long. Gorgeous. I am satisfied."(ph Giampaolo Corona, Ama Dablam BC,Khumbu Valley,Nepal)#montagnamagicaweb#himalaya#Amadablam#alpinismo#alpinism#climbing ...
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica
EVEREST Multiple sources reporting the news that from Everest Base Camp about 8-10 people by DAY had been evacuated by helicopter to Kathmandu with C o v i d symptoms. ...
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
While Nepali Government is busy hiding and censoring news, in Kathmandu hospitals are full and at Everest BC the growing numbers of Covid19 cases raise great concerns on climbing feasibility under this terrific circumstances.India is collapsing under the worst pandemic wave - and also there Government is desperately trying to minimize and hide the bad news - while borders with Nepal are open.But climbing business and agencies remains silent, probably fearing Nepali Government countermeasures against who dare to tell the truth.This is not about climbing. This is a nightmare. ...
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
EVEREST While an avalanche, triggered by a serac fall on West shoulder, hit the Icefall and as for first report blocked the route built by the Sherpa Icefall Doctors - further update suggests route is not damaged - first case of Covid19 was reported at Base Camp, forcing the expedition members of the ill climber to respect quarantine .There are news that others climbers were evacuated or leaved the BC by helicopters .The Nepal Government released a weird letter (in Nepalese only) which rule the climbers to "respect social distances while climbing" and declare that climbers will have their opportunity for summit bid on the base of permit serial numbers. First come first served (!?!?)Considering that at BC there are hundreds of people waiting to climb the route, so far equipped till South Col, we'll see the evolution of these serious issues and how Authority will try to enforce the rules ( easy: they will not, they have anyone who can check a silly rule like this)Few climbers will try to climb without oxygen : David Goettler and Killian Jornet - the last could try Everest Lhotse traverse - are the most known and experienced (ph by climber Shehroze Kashif ,Pakistan / the avalanche which hit the Icefall)#montagnamagicaweb #Himalaya #Everest#climbing#alpinism ...
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
Where did I have seen this before ?(ph Mingma Gyaljie Sherpa,Annapurna jumarers queue to summit few days ago)P.S. "dear passengers, ride next stop : Dhaulagiri"#montagnamagicaweb #himalaya#annapurna#jumarism ...
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
Italian veteran alpine guide, strong climber Giampaolo Corona is quietly hanging around in Himalaya.He wrote today his progress , showing a great stamina and commitment"I did not respect the normal times for acclimatization, I asked my body to ignore some flashing red lights.And I did it. Lobuche (4900 m) / Lobuche Peak East (6117) and back in 6 hours. Now non stop I go down to Dingboche and tomorrow I go up to BC Ama Dablam.The greatest satisfaction was the compliments that the local sherpas gave me." (ph Giampaolo Corona) ...
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
A group of people summited Annapurna today.* Edit: as for my Nepalese sources, 67 people summited*For first time in history - and this is not a good record - the Leader of the commercial expeditions on Annapurna normal route, called an helicopter from Kathmandu which dropped 800mt of ropes, gear, O2 bottles,food and maybe candies at 7300mt of altitude, directly at C4 ,where the large group of people camped waiting for their Sherpas opening the highway to summit , on a hard icy final section, which is a climber activity that these people can't do by themselves.Why? Because permit time and business needs didn't meet with wise decisions.This has nothing to do with alpinism or climbing.Of course there are no rules and anyone could decide to be taken by helicopter directly on summit, maybe it will happen soon .But we are free to think that this is pure madness,greed, business reserved for record-seekers.Wish all come down safely and will not spend more words about this sad day for 8000ers mountaineering. ...
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