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1 week ago

Montagna Magica
The Himalayan Database , il gruppo di studiosi indipendenti che porta avanti l'immenso lavoro ereditato da Miss Elizabeth Hawley [ grazie anche all'intenso scambio di reports, relazioni, testimonianze e dati con gli altri esperti di 8000ers.com - altro archivio immenso sulle grandi montagne di Himalaya e Karakorum e tutte le scalate compiute, guidato da Eberhard Jurgalski con la collaborazione di alpinisti, storici e ricercatori a loro volta indipendenti] ha rilasciato questo storico comunicato oggi pomeriggio, che traduco dall'inglese :"L'Himalayan Database Team desidera congratularsi con tutte le spedizioni alpinistiche in Nepal Himalaya che hanno raggiunto la vetta di una vetta di 8.000 metri o meno in questa stagione e augura buona fortuna a tutti coloro che sono ancora in viaggio verso le montagne.L'autunno 2021 è stata una stagione molto interessante che ha finalmente portato chiarezza sulla questione della vetta del Manaslu, l'ottava montagna più alta del mondo.Il 27 settembre 2021, Mingma Gyalje e il suo team hanno raggiunto il punto più alto del Manaslu, documentato da un drone che è stato pilotato nello stesso momento in cui Mingma Gyalje si è avvicinato alla vera vetta. Ci sono polemiche riguardo al punto più alto della cresta sommitale del Manaslu da alcuni anni e l'Himalayan Database ha esaminato la questione più volte. Un rapporto pubblicato da 8000ers.com fornisce ulteriori dettagli sull'esatta topografia del Manaslu. Potete leggere il rapporto completo qui: www.8000ers.com/cms/en/download.html?func=fileinfo&id=242Con il successo sulla vetta, chiaramente documentato, di Mingma Gyalje e del suo team, l'Himalayan Database ha deciso che dal 2022 accrediterà la vetta solo a coloro che raggiungeranno il punto più alto mostrato nelle foto scattate col drone da Jackson Groves. Coloro che raggiungono le cime indicate come pianoro 2, C2 e C3 nella foto saranno accreditati per aver raggiunto solo l'anticima.Questo cambiamento nell'accreditamento ufficiale [sul database pubblico e ufficiale, NdT] della vetta è stato raccomandato e supportato da operatori stranieri e nepalesi che abbiamo consultato a Kathmandu.Poiché non possiamo cambiare la storia, annotiamo nel database che dal 1956 - quando la vetta fu raggiunta per la prima volta da Toshio Imanishi, Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa - al 2021, abbiamo comunque accettato i tre punti sopra menzionati come vetta per mancanza di una approfondita conoscenza [topografica,NdT].Auguriamo a tutti in Nepal un felice Dashain e attendiamo con impazienza i vostri rapporti sulle vostre spedizioni, che raccogliamo di persona o tramite il nostro modulo online, che trovate qui: www.surveymonkey.com/r/Arrival_Return..e un enorme ringraziamento va a Jackson Groves per queste rivoluzionarie immagini dei droni."( ph Jackson Groves - Journey Era Travel Blog ) ...
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1 week ago

Montagna Magica
Read this important statement. ...
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2 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
One of the most honest statement about the 8000ers summit I've ever read .Hats off!The definition of a summit is where nothing leads upwards and only downwards. Why then is it so difficult to honor this paradigm among 8000m summit claims? The answer is multifaceted where everything from the field of view is obstructed, misunderstanding or inadequate knowledge of where the true/main summit is located to group pressure and poor weather which makes it difficult to orient oneself in this treacherous terrain in the death zone where the brain simply works on the half-speed at best. When I was climbing on Broad Peak (8047 m) in Pakistan in the year 2017 without supplemental O2 I joined an enthusiastic team (led by Mingma Gayle Sherpa) to where the consensus at the time was that we had reached the true/main summit. The weather was poor, and visibility was not greater than 10-15 m at times and I had a nagging feeling up there that something was wrong. The terrain did not match the research I had done on Broad Peak’s summit, and it did not take long until the most reputed 8000m historians contacted me, Eberhard Jurgalski at 8000ers.com, and we started investigating where we had been. With meticulous scrutiny and comparison with undisputable reference pictures and film, I realized that I and the rest of the team had been approx. fifteen vertical meters short from the true/main summit on a foresummit and I immediately retrieved my summit claim. I returned the year after and summited Broad Peak (see the attached picture from the true/main summit) during an auspicious weather window (apart from the cold and fierce wind) with my climbing partner David Roeske. If the summit was the goal, then evidently reaching the true/main summit should be paramount. The recent disputes of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri summit claims have made me curious and concerned, and I have once again dug into my archives to investigate what is what with tremendous help from outstanding documents that Eberhard and his colleagues have put together. The Manaslu document is called: “About-Manaslu-summit-topography” and the Dhaulagiri document is called: DHA1-topography-V1.5-A. It is now clear to me that I did not summit Manaslu’s true/main summit back in autumn 2015 and in fact, none of the around eighty climbers did. We must have been to the foresummit designated as C2 in the Manaslu document. I recommend that you get hold of these documents as they are a true piece of detective work and can help future mountaineers to avoid any controversy where the actual ture/main summit is located. Secondly, I was climbing on Dhaulagiri in 2003 which was a particularly hair-raising experience with quite a few close calls during an epic downclimb during the formidable night after the summit push. Luckily, there were no fatalities that spring. Just before I and Kami Sherpa were topping out on the west couloir there was a climber who stumbled and fell down the couloir. I do not know how far he would have slid if it were not for Kami and me who stopped him. The wind was outrageous when we arrived at the ridge, and we were fighting to be able to walk. Comparing my material and my accounts from what happened that day (I must admit my mind was blurred due to exposure and climbing without supplemental O2) with Eberhard’s Dhaulagiri document I now have a tough time seeing that we could have been on the true/main summit but instead must have been at one of the foresummits. In summary, it now stands clear to me that I neither could have been on either Manaslu’s or Dhaulagiri’s true/main summit and therefore I effectively retrieve my summit claim on these two peaks. Right should be right, no question about it. Eberhard and his colleagues have done a phenomenal job to enlighten us about the facts of the summit's whereabouts and their important work should be praised and rewarded. Please support Eberhard the way I have done in the past by paying for his services! Also, Eberhard and his colleagues claim that several of the early pioneers that have claimed to reach the true/main summit of 8000ers in their quest to scale the world's fourteen 8000m peaks has in fact not done so. It is also a commonly known fact that many organizers have guided high-altitude tourists (there is no condescending intention by naming mountaineers as tourists on 8000m and there are in fact many high-altitude tourists. For instance, I regard my climb on Manalsu as tourism as I was using both fixed ropes and O2 in my attempt to ski the mountain) to one of the foresummits on Manaslu for many years and set it into practice. I also would like to stress out a couple of important things. Firstly, I do not climb solely to reach a summit. It is called climbing not “summing”. The reason I climb lays somewhere between the base and the summit. Secondly, it lays in every mountaineer’s interest to know where the summit is and if one has attained it, why else spend thousands of hours training and spending countless money on giant peaks? Therefore, I am grateful to have received insights about Manaslu and Dhaulagiri and extend my thankfulness to people who devote so much time to investigate the matter. Thirdly, an insight I have learned during my years climbing 8000ers is that the talk has been constructive and without prejudice but there are always people behind a desk who is anonymous and who are intoxicating the discourse and even going as far as sending death threats. I have received several death threats over the years and that is unacceptable. Let us respect manners when we talk to each other. There are too many problems already in the world today. It costs nothing to be kind and constructive. If you want to learn more about the 8000m summit topic then please visit www.8000ers.comWith kind regards Fredrik Sträng ...
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
@sajidalisadpara Sajid Ali Sadpara and @alextxikon Alex Txikon did a special tribute mission in Nanga Parbat.Here the words of the young and brave climber and son of late Ali:"Nangaparbat was very dear to Father Ali Sadpara.He summitt this mountain four times the only climber to do this and also made first winter ascend of Nangaparbat in 26 February 2016 with his companions Alex Txikon and Simon Moro.and also made fisr autumn summit.In father's memory we did the treck of Nangaparbat and did some solar projects in Massner School Chilas Sairi village and put some plates of father and the renowned mountaineers who lost their lives in Nangaparbat.Thank you Alextxikon , EKI foundation,Massner foundation,sevensummitttreks for helping people of chilas in father name and specially lots of respect and thanks to people of chilas for hospitality and Sharing father memories .They love father and have emotional attachment with father Ali Sadpara.We did many music ceremonies in Sairi where Sadpara use to sing and dance."(ph Sajid Sadpara & team, tribute to his father and climbers fallen on Nanga,Alex working on solar panels for the community living in Chilas)#montagnamagicaweb #sadpara#Nangaparbat#Chilas#alextxikon#alpinismo#alpinism#climbing ...
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
Jackson Groves - Journey Era Travel Blog shared these beautiful drone hi-res photos which show better the final summital ridge and the real perspective of the slope angles, the climbers queue at the usual (fore)summit where fixed ropes stop and Mingma G team traversing few meters below to tackle the true summit avoiding the dangerous snow corniches on the tiny ridge .Mingma G also has just posted these words about it :"[That’s me]leading the way to true summit and my team waiting at the ridge. It wasn’t a difficult way and I am sure Manaslu will be climbed to true summit from now on……"Anyway, it's also clear that when dozen of climbers approach these last steps of the Manaslu climb, it's hardly an option to make all of them traversing there... and coming back, unless the Sherpas equip a two-way path.. Which is unlikely an option.(ph ©️ Jackson Groves with Mavic Air 2s drone) ...
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3 weeks ago

Montagna Magica
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